California’s First Capital – Historic Adobes now Falling Slowly into Ruin – An Old Settler Talks of Pioneer Men and Scenes of Early Days When Monterey Was in its Prime

Monterey, the dream of the first Spanish navigators to our coast, across the placid waters of whose bay floated the solemn tones of the first mass ever celebrated in California, and the scenes of the early struggle of the infant state to free itself from old Mexico, surrounded by the memories of nearly three centuries, Monterey is, indeed, the object of deep interest. Back from the ocean and shut in by low, undulating mountains, is the famous Carmel Valley. Its river, during the dry season, is marked only by a path of white sand, bordered by grasses of variegated green, dotted here and there by yellow stubble. The descent into the valley is short and steep, and close by the roadway runs the ruined adobe wall that of old enclosed the mission. As early as 1770, Junipero Serra, with some of his loyal followers, came down from this valley where they had built the first mission in California and, sailing along into this beautiful bay, tied their boat to an oak tree which yet stands as a monument to the man who founded the City of Monterey. He and his ardent apostles appreciated the beautiful and picturesque site and began the erection of the famed San Carlos Mission which now stands like a sentinel, watching the new growth of the old City of Monterey. Today the adobe buildings, slowly falling into ruins, are pathetic reminders to the past which belongs distinctively to early California. Bountiful in historical treasures and greatly endowed with natural beauty, she is a city of adobe ruins which are being gradually supplanted by homes of more modern design. Probably the most interesting of the historical buildings was the old Cartel on California Street. This structure was recently torn down to make room for the extension of Alvarado Street, the main thoroughfare of the city. This adobe was a two-storied affair, long and rambling, having a balcony running entirely around it. It was built in 1840 by A. Abrego, acting under orders from Gov. Alvarado, at a cost of $14,000, redwood then selling at $70 per thousand and nails at $48 a keg. The Cartel was used as a school building until the school was transferred to Colton Hall. Colton Hall, which now stands in a good state of preservation, is where the first Legislature convened in this state. The building was planned and built by Robert Colton, then Alcalde of Monterey. In the pages of Colton’s diary we find the concise history of its construction. “In 1842,” says Colton, “the Town Hall on which I have been at work more than a year is at last finished. It is built of white stone quarried from an adjacent hill and easily takes the shape you desire. The lower compartments are for schools; the hall over this, 70x30 feet, is for public assemblies. The front is ornamented with a portico which you enter from the hall. It is not an edifice that would attract attention among the public school buildings of the United States, but in California it has no rival. It has been erected out of the slender proceeds of town lots, the labor of the convicts, taxes on liquor stores, and fines on gamblers. The scheme was regarded with incredulity by many, but the building is finished, and the citizens have assembled in it and christened it after my name, which will go down to posterity with the odor of gamblers, convicts, and tipplers.” It is hard to believe that the old building standing on the hillside could have been considered the finest edifice in California. The stone prison, also built by Robert Colton, adjoins the hall. Here, high upon a rising knoll, just back of Monterey, are the remains of an old fort, and from here a commanding view of the adobe city can be had. There seems to be no definite history of the old fort, but it is usually called Fremont’s Fort. Dr. James Ord, now a resident of Pacific Grove and who is acquainted with the early history of the state, is the only surviving officer of the Third Artillery of which he was surgeon that came in 1847 with the expedition of the American occupation. From his interesting reminiscences of early days in Monterey, we learn that the old fort on the government reservation is misnamed. It is really Fort Halleck, so named in honor of Lieut. W. H. Halleck of the Corps of Engineers, by whom it was laid out. The fort was built by Lieut. E. O. C. Ord and Lieut. W. T. Sherman in 1847, and the earthworks were thrown up by Col. J. D. Stevenson, in command of the New York Volunteers and regulars then stationed on the hill. Within close proximity to the old fort and lying at the water’s edge is the old Custom House, the most important building in the early history of California. The authentic story of the building of this old adobe comes from a pioneer, Jack Swan, who came to Monterey in 1843 and still resides in this vicinity. The foundation, or rather the central portion of the Custom House, was laid when the flag of old Spain waved over California, and after remaining for years in that state, the walls were raised under the Mexican rule and a tiled roof put upon the central part and at the end two shingled towers, the second of which was not built until 1844. In the Mexican time, the Custom House could boast of a boat and a boat’s crew, but now Uncle Sam is too poor to support one in the third harbor in California, though it is the only port from San Francisco to San Diego where a vessel can lie in safety during a southeaster. In early days, it used to support two or three Custom House officers for Monterey was the port where the duties were paid by vessels trading to the Mexican Department or the Territory of California. In the latter part of 1844, the Custom House was turned into a ballroom by the officers of the United States frigate Savannah, then lying in the Bay of Monterey. The only building of amusement in old Monterey, besides the enclosure where the young caballeros used to hold their field and athletic sports, was Swan’s Theatre. The theatrical history of Monterey dates back to the Fall of 1847 when four volunteers, Mat Gormley, William Tindal, Jack Moran (still living in Monterey), and Long Lee, came up from Santa Barbara. They were in the minstrel line and had given several burnt-cork entertainments in Santa Barbara before leaving. In Monterey they were joined by Alex Patterson, Peter Earl, and three local characters designated as “Tips,” “Taps,” and “Tops.” Old John Swan, a ’43 pioneer, was manager. He tells the following story of the first performance ever given in California: “It took place in my old adobe storehouse which yet stands on Pacific Avenue, though time has told on it and from lack of care it is almost in ruins. The performance came to pass in this way. About the time that Stevenson’s regiment was disbanded, three companies with the Colonel came to Monterey. Soon after, the soldiers attempted a theatrical performance which was a success. Encouraged by their liberal patronage, I had seats fixed and a stage and scenery were put into the building. The bills were got out in due form, posters printed with a blacking pot and brush, and programs written announcing ‘Putnam; or, the Lion Son of ’76,’ as the first piece to be played. ‘Damon and Pythias,’ ‘Box and Cox,’ ‘The Golden Farmer,’ ‘Grandfather Whitehead,’ and ‘Nan, the Good for Nothing,’ were pieces in the repertoire. The years of 1849 and 1850 were memorable eras in the thespian record of Monterey.” Another building that has been torn down was the old convent. It was built in 1832 for the Sisters of Charity, but a portion of the convent wall is all that now marks the spot where the convent stood. The high wall was standing until a few years ago when it was deemed necessary to tear it down to make room for houses for the convent was in the most central portion of the town. Although the convent has passed away, the educational spirit that permeated its walls has by no means passed away with it, and the people, feeling the need for more educational advantages, have raised the funds and the contract has been let for a college building. A building that is interesting from the fact that it shows that the spirit of progress asserted itself in Monterey before it did in any other portion of the state is the old frame building at the extreme end of California Street. This is built of teak, and is the first frame house that stood in California. It was put together in Australia and brought to Monterey in a sailing vessel. While the wood is strong and has not crumbled, it presents a very tumbled appearance, perhaps owing to the way it was put together. Standing near and in direct contrast to it is the imposing residence once occupied by Gov. Alvarado. This building is at present the home of a Spanish family who trace their lineage back to a Castilian family of nobility. The Washington Hotel, built in the early forties, is one of the largest adobes ever built in California. When the capital of the state was Monterey, all of her important and distinguished visitors were entertained in this hotel, and Sherman, Fremont, Sloat, and many others have danced the Spanish quadrilles within its historic walls. Even in those primitive days, the beau monde docked from far and near.

[San Francisco Chronicle, Nov. 1895. Submitted by K. Marynik]