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A True Picture of Emigration
By Rebecca Burlend
Edited by Milo Milton Quaife
The Lakeside Press 1936
Transcribed by Christine Walters January 17, 2010
Google Books
John D. and Rebecca (Burton) Burlend
Buried at Bethel Cemetery
(21 Dec 1783 - 4 Apr. 1871) - (18 May 1793-31 Jan 1872)
Edward Burlend
Chapter 1
Whatever may have been our success in America, I can attribute but little of it to myself; as I gave up the
idea of ending my days in my own country with the utmost reluctance, and should never have become an emigrant, if obedience to
my husband's wishes had left me any alternative. His motives, briefly stated, were these: — In the year 1817 we took a small
farm at a village in Yorkshire on a lease for fourteen years, and as corn was at that time selling well, the rent was fixed at too high a
rate for us to obtain a comfortable livelihood. We did indeed by dint of great industry and strict economy, maintain our credit
to the end of the lease; but the severe struggles we had to endure to meet our payments, the gradual diminution of our little property,
and the entire absence of any prospects of being able to supply the wants of a large family had tended effectually to fix my husband's purpose of trying what could be done in the western world. We accordingly disposed of our little furniture, settled our pecuniary affairs, and ultimately began our long journey the last week in August 1831.
The reader will now enquire to what part of America we were going, or whether we had any plans as to the locality of our future
home. This is an important consideration for every emigrant, though little attended to by many. We were not, however, like the
poor Northumbrian, who, on landing at New York a few years ago, required a person whom he met in the street, to direct him to
the back settlements. My husband had traveled many miles to obtain a sight of private American letters, and after maturely
considering all the intelligence he could collect, he determined to go to Pike County, Illinois, to a person named Mr. B—, who
had settled there a year or two before, and written to a brother of his in this country (1).
Without further preface, we are therefore to be considered on our way from the centre of Yorkshire to Liverpool, self, husband, and
five children, the eldest a boy about nine years old, two others we were leaving behind, the one my eldest son engaged as an
under teacher in a boarding school, the other my eldest daughter serving also in a respectable family.(2)
To persons such as we were, who had never been forty miles from home, a journey by wagon and railway, where every hour presents the eye with something new, does not afford the best opportunity for reflection; we in consequence
reached Liverpool before we fully felt the importance of
the step we were taking. Nature had indeed yielded a little as we gazed upon the scenes of our industry, which time had endeared,
for the last time. But it was at Liverpool, when we had got our luggage to a boarding-house and were waiting the departure of a
vessel, that the throes of leaving England and all its endearments put our courage to a test the most severe. Our minds were now
undisturbed by surrounding objects; we occupied a small apartment for which we paid two shillings a day, without even the indulgence of a fire to cook our provisions. The
dark smoky walls of the opposite buildings were the only prospect that the situation of our sojourn could afford. Predisposed to
melancholy as we were, no one can be surprised when he is told that its effects were soon apparent. A stranger would have
thought us a most unsocial family, as we sat in profound silence for an hour together, only now and then a sigh would escape us
tending to vary but not to enliven this painful monotony. Even our children participated in our disquietude, and seemed to lose
their wonted vivacity. My dear husband, who before had displayed nothing but hardihood, on this occasion had almost played the
woman. After a deep silence I not unfrequently observed his eyes suffused with tears, which though unnoticed by him, fell
in quick succession down his sun browned cheeks. We were six days in this abode, and I may venture to assert that he did not spend
six hours of the time in the forgetfulness of sleep.
At last the day dawned on which we were to embark. We had already bespoke our berths and paid a deposit to secure them.
It was a critical period: my husband appeared to feel as if all the responsibility was laid upon him. He doubtless felt for himself; but his children and myself were the
principal objects of his solicitude. Those he was leaving behind would be left to the wide world without any one to watch over them;
and that at a time when the passions which actuate the human breast, are in the greatest need of parental authority and advice.
The destiny of those he was taking with him appeared about to be consigned to a vague uncertain probability. The die was going to
be cast. In twelve hours more we should be on the deep, where return would be impracticable. These considerations,—the perils of
the sea the more dreaded because unknown, together with many other weighty considerations which a father and a husband in such a
situation could not but feel, got the better of his natural prowess, and that morning he addressed me in the following manner: "O
Rebecca, I cannot do it, I cannot do it for myself I fear nothing; but the impenetrable gloom and uncertainty attending this step
completely bewilders me. Should anything befall me, what will become of you and my children on the stormy ocean, or in a strange
land and among pathless woods. Bad as our prospects are in England we must go back! Such another night as the last has been I
cannot survive! this terrible suspense and anxiety tears me in pieces.
Sentiments like these a few months ago would have been hailed with delight, and even then I must confess I felt a sort of inward satisfaction, although I knew them to be rather the effects of his feelings than his
mental decisions. If we returned I knew he could not be satisfied with his condition, still less with his present conduct. I however acquiesced in silence, only replying, I would do
what he thought best. We accordingly began to remove our boxes back to the luggage waggon, whither I accompanied him; but all
the time we were thus employed he appeared like one whose movements are coerced. The smile with which he usually accompanied his addresses no longer appeared. I saw it
like those who return from the interment of a near relative, in mournful silence. Never before had I felt so much to devolve on me, and perhaps never in my life did I so much
feel it my duty to practise self-denial. My native land was as dear to me as ever: my two children, to whom I had bidden adieu, were strong ties. But the consciousness that
it was my duty to bear up the sinking spirits of my partner, left me only one course to adopt. For a moment I raised my eyes to him "who sitteth above the water-floods,
and with feelings I am not able to depict, broke silence as follows;—
"I admit, my dear husband, that our situation is a very trying one; but remember how often and how long you have resolved to go to America; hitherto we have experienced nothing that we did not anticipate;
and should any calamity befall us on our journey, you have adopted emigration only from a conviction that it would tend to the good of the family; and the Almighty is as able to preserve us and our children across the seas or in America as he is in England.
Besides, if we return, we have broken up our home and sold our furniture, and should be worse situated than ever; let us even go, and look to Providence for success." The above
advice on my part operated like a charm. All that has been said of the effects of martial music was here realized. His answer was
rather in deed than in word. In two hours more our luggage was removed from the waggon, where it had just been placed with
a view of returning home, to the ship in which we had taken our berths. The remainder of the day till four o'clock was spent
in procuring stores, cooking utensils, necessary for our voyage; and when the sun went down on the second of September, 1831,
we were on the waters; having previously confided ourselves to the care of Him "whom earth and seas are ready to obey."
Chapter 2
After we had thus finally determined and put it out of our power to alter that decision, our minds were more at ease than before. There being no longer
any doubt as to whether we should go to America, the suspense which had hitherto been so afflicting began in a great measure to
subside. My husband resumed his wonted cheerfulness, and expressed his belief that the course we had ultimately adopted would
prove the best in the end. We were now passengers, in the steerage, on the vessel "Home," bound for New Orleans. Our reasons for sailing to that port the most distant
in North America, and not in a direct course to the Illinois, were on account of the ready transit we should make thence into the interior up the Mississippi; whereas, by landing at New York, Boston, or Philadelphia,
we should have had to cross the Allegheny mountains, and travel a great distance by land, which would have been both very troublesome on account of our luggage, and very expensive.
The perplexed state of mind in which we were prior to embarking had prevented our noticing or enjoying the fine sights which the port of Liverpool presents. I speak not of
the magnitude of the town, nor of its architectural decorations, but of the immense forests of ships, which on every hand strike the
eye of the beholder as he sails out of the harbor. Whatever might have been my ideas of the greatness and wealth of England before, I am sure they were greatly enlarged
when I beheld for the first time in my life those unwieldily instruments of commerce crowded like forest trees on the sea further
than the eye could reach. As the wind was favorable we soon lost sight of the shore. Yet the eye with unwearied vigilance kept
steadily fixed on the few eminences which remained visible, till they gradually waned into obscurity, and at last disappeared altogether. The reader may think me needlessly
precise in naming this circumstance; but I assure him there were many on board, who, as well as myself, felt a gratification in gazing at the naked rocks that projected from
the land that had given us birth; and when it was finally announced that England was no longer visible, there was not a person in
the ship who would not have heartily responded amen to the prayer, 'God bless it. For myself, I felt as if I was leaving all I had
been wont to prize; and when I could no longer see the shore, I shall never forget how enviously I looked upon the vessels that were
approaching the shores I was leaving. I followed them with my eye, one by one, till quite weary with looking I descended into the cabin, and endeavored to be reconciled
to my situation by exercising myself in some necessary employment.
Although we were entire strangers to a seafaring life, we found we had been judicious in the choice of our provisions: we were
well supplied with oatmeal and flour, bacon, biscuits, tea and coffee, etc, and as we had to cook for ourselves at a fire which supplied
all the steerage passengers, I found I should have something to do besides descrying distant sails, and sighing a blessing to those bound for England.
At home I had always been fond of regularity with regard to the dinner hour, but I soon found if I continued my punctual habits
on board I should often be liable to be laughed at for my pains, and lose my dinner in the bargain. Imagine to yourself, kind reader, a
small fire surrounded by half-a-dozen sturdy rustic's, as busy boiling, roasting, and frying, as if their lives depended upon a single meal,
and I will hazard an opinion you would be very hungry before you would venture among them. I do not say they would eat
you; but either from the motion of the ship, or their uncouthness, your fortune would be better than mine if you got your meal prepared without being scalded. For the above
reasons I soon forgot my punctuality, and through the remainder of the voyage our custom was to cook and eat when we could, for seasons are not unknown on ship-board when both must be dispensed with.
During the first few days the weather was calm: we had sailed down the Irish channel before the much dreaded sea-sickness began
to annoy us. I had even begun to think, that like many other evils, its terrors had
been overrated; but before we had been a week on board a heavy gale began to blow
from the north-west, the sky became dark
and unsettled, when I began to be exceedingly sick; a disorder in which nearly all the
passengers participated. Painfully afflictive
as this malady was, it soon became of little
consideration on account of a more alarming
misfortune which threatened to befall us.
The sea was beginning to be unusually rough,
its huge foaming waves came dashing against
the sides of the vessel, as if they had been let
loose to destroy it. Sometimes we appeared
about to leave the waters, and become
inhabitants of aerial regions; then again one
might suppose the ship was instantaneously
descending into the caverns of the deep,
overwhelmed by the mass of waters which
on all sides encompassed it, and at times
came sweeping over the deck with irresistible fury. A thousand times I thought
the ship would be upset by the force of the
tempest, which, roaring tremendously, carried all before it, and often laid our masts
nearly level with the main; when suddenly
regaining her upright position, she seemed to
be contending with the blast, and by a movement I can scarcely account for, obtruding
her briny sails against the forces of the
storm. The crew were all in action; their
shouting's were vociferous;—louder even
than the voice of the wind. Terror and dismay were on every hand. The captain alone
preserved his serenity; his orders were delivered in a loud but unfaltering tone; he
might have been a divinity of the waters so
dignified and majestic was his deportment
on this occasion. Not so the passengers,—
they were indeed mortals, and suppliants
too. Impiety was banished from the ship.
You might have seen those, who yesterday
could not conclude a sentence without the
usual flourish of an oath, now on their knees
serious enough. The night came on,—the
passengers were ordered below: such a night
I never witnessed. The storm was incessant.
The timbers creaked alarmingly; and the
sailors, hurrying to and fro on the deck, filled
us with renewed consternation. Every moment we expected the waters to rush in upon
us. I shall never forget the horrors of that
night, increased as they were by the heart-rending moaning's of my despairing companions. It was not the time for reflection: reason had little control over our actions; as our
fears directed, so we conducted ourselves.
Nature's bonds, however, were not entirely
dissevered, for then even I found myself in a
corner of the cabin, my husband at my right
hand, which he often clasped in his, and our
dear little children huddled around us, giving
us their little hands to fondle over and caress.
Art thou a mother, gentle reader, thou mayest in part conceive what my feelings were;
but there are sensations which no description
can embody; there are emotions which nothing but experience can explain: of this kind
were mine.
At length the morning began to dawn; we
were all anxiety to see the day, and ascertain
our real situation. Of all the emotions of
which the human bosom is susceptible, suspense is the most intolerable. We desired to
know the worst; but our orders were to keep
within, and we feared to disobey. The little
light we obtained from the semi pellucid glass
at the top of our cabin, was of no avail. Our
ears had caused us to think the storm was
abating; but this only increased our anxiety,
as we were afraid to hope, lest we should be
deceived, when to our surprise the cabin door
sprung open; it was the captain himself who
had opened it. His appearance was like one
of those celestial visitors, which the sacred
pages have portrayed on errands of mercy.
We hurried to meet him; but he desired us to
be at ease, assuring us the danger was past.
His expressive words "the danger is past,"
were repeated again and again through all
the cabin; and now the scene was changed.
In the place of lamentations and the voice of
despair, were immediately heard jocularity
and the tumult of mirth. His words had
metamorphosed the room. Forgotten or disregarded were all the pious vows which had
been made the preceding night. "They ate
and they drank and they rose up to play;"
but few could be seen in the attitude of
praise. The storm had indeed abated; and,
such is human nature, religion had vanished
at the same time. The following day I learnt
we had been driven considerably out of our
course into the Bay of Biscay; but no further
injury was sustained except a little to the
cordage, which the sailors shortly put right,
and before evening the sails were again
unfurled, and our ship in good repair, majestically making head-way across the Atlantic.
This was the only storm we encountered during our passage; it was a severe one; even
the sailors spoke of it with concern, and
seemed aware our danger had been great.
A long sea-voyage is generally allowed to
be a tedious time, and there is some foundation for the remark, when it is considered
how little variety is there observable. The
ship, your companions, the sky above you
and the 'dark blue ocean* below, with occasionally a solitary sail gliding quietly along
at a distance, constitute the principal objects that come under the notice of ordinary
travellers. There is nothing of that everlasting newness and beauty,—that pleasing variety of hill and dale, of trees whose foliage is
varied by a thousand hues, meandering
streams, village towers and spires that everywhere meet the eye in an English landscape.
Nor is the ear more favoured than the eye.
The creaking of the cables and the mast, the
coarse discordant notes of the seamen and
the monotonous dashing of the waves against
the vessel, are the most common and almost
the entire sounds that a sea-breeze can
boast. The melodious warbling of the grove
are there unknown; and when the nightdews are falling, the mellow flute notes of
the swain breathing innocence and love,
never once remind the passenger on the deep
that the labours of the day are ended, and
the star of evening appears.
The sea, nevertheless, has its beauties and
grandeur; but these are rather perceptible to
the reflecting mind than the external sense.
One evening I well remember when we were
about half-way across the Atlantic, I was
alone on the deck, pensively considering the
peculiarity of my situation, and impatiently
desirous to know what my future condition
should be, when casting my eyes towards
the east I beheld a most magnificent spectacle: the large full moon was just clearing
the watery horizon. I always love to see the
moon beginning her nocturnal rambles; her
beams are the light in which meditation appears the most lovely; but when on that delightful evening, in the midst of the great
Atlantic, I beheld the same kind planet,
beneath whose balmy light I had gamboled
in my childhood and conversed on subjects
the most endearing in maturer age, my whole
soul was overpowered with ecstasy. Bear
with me, kind reader, bear with a woman's
weakness, if I tell thee I looked upon her as
an old companion, and addressed her as a
bosom friend, so forcibly did she remind me
of the many delightful and happy hours I
had spent under her auspicious beams in my
native land. Independent of these interesting associations, her appearance at such a
time and in such a place was highly imposing, and calculated in a remarkable degree
to remind me of the insignificance of man
and his noblest performances. Impressed in
this manner I gazed upon her broad disk,
and O how magnificently splendid! I next
surveyed the deep, gilded on one side by her
rays and on the other terminating the view
by a dark half-visible horizon; and what a
world of water seemed to surround me. I
then considered the ship,—poor feeble bark,
thought I, how insecure thou art! a single
wave could undo thee. Lastly I looked at myself: the contrast was sickening; human pride
could not bear it; I cast my eyes once more
upon the moon, and returned into the cabin.
To proceed,—by the time we had well got
half-way across the water, our impatience to
see land daily increased; the hours began to
pass more tardily along than before. Those
that kept their minds most engaged were the
most happy; a piece of philosophy this which
will generally hold true. I am not going to
describe my fellow-passengers as philosophers, the few traits I have already given
prove they were not; but to do them justice,
many of them were expert hands at dispelling
melancholy. This they did sometimes by
cracking jokes at each other, sometimes by
relating portions of their histories, or celebrating the matchless heroism or strength of
their kindred. Thus by degrees having severally acquired an epitome of each other's
lives, a sort of community was formed and
neighbourhoods established, less regulated
indeed by locality than peculiar likings.
When first we set out each must cook for
himself, or at most for his own family; now
you might have seen three or four messing
together, having previously agreed to throw
their respective provisions into one common
store. By this means there were fewer dishes
to prepare, and consequently better accommodation. We were too strict economists
to adopt the joining system; and our solicitude respecting our journey caused us rather
to avoid intimacy with our companions than
to court it. Yes, many a time when mirth
and noise have been the prevailing order on
deck, have I sought retirement to muse upon
the past, and pry into the future. I own such
conduct was unwise; I should have been
happier if I could have mingled in the diversions of my companions: but, reader, knowest thou not when the heart is sick the very
means which should be beneficial are often
the most repulsive?
It was impossible, from the nature of
things, that I could be happy, while as yet
we were travelling we scarcely knew whither.
On one occasion while thus alone on the
deck, near the cook's cabin, I perceived an
unusual quantity of smoke issuing from the
door and chimney, and on looking down I
perceived a person named Jack, who by the
by had stolen on board at Liverpool and was
working his passage, involved in a cloud of
smoke and flame from a pan of pitch, which
by accident he had spilled into the fire. I
gave the alarm, and all hands were immediately on the spot. The wood was beginning
to ignite, and if it had not been attended to
with the utmost promptitude our situation
would soon have been awful. A mattress,
which happened to be near, was instantly
put upon the chimney to prevent the draught,
and buckets of water were plentifully thrown
in at the door, so that in a very short time
the fire was extinguished. Poor Jack fared
the worst: his right arm was almost roasted,
which caused him to be, as an invalid, exempt from duty to the end of the voyage.
His misfortune excited the compassion of
many on board, some of whom presented
him with wearing apparel, of which he
was in great need. For myself by being in
the centre of the crowd, I became entangled
in a rope near the mouth of the cabin, which
subjected me to the stench and steam thence
arising. I was however soon released from
my accidental fetters, and laden with the
grateful acknowledgments of all around.
Another time while pacing upon the deck,
I was almost struck dumb to see my son, the
boy before alluded to, a fine youth, but uncommonly daring, (3)
fast asleep on the bow sprit. The least accidental movement and he
would have lost his equilibrium, and been precipitated into the water. Alarmed as I was, I
did all that a mother could do in such a situation to preserve the life of one so dear. My
husband was just at hand. I made no noise,
but all in agitation pointed out the cause of
my distress. He soon understood me,—and,
with all the concern of an affectionate father,
hastened softly towards the lad, and rescued
him from that imminent peril into which his
daring spirit had unwittingly led him.
The recital of these incidents brings me,
through the order in which they occurred,
towards the West Indies; and to another occurrence which for a short time caused a
greater alarm than any thing we met with
during the voyage. The circumstances are
as fresh in my mind as if they had transpired
only yesterday. I had been observing with
interest and pity a number of flying fishes
occasionally rise out of the water to avoid
their pursuers, when several of the passengers came to the side on which I was standing to behold a fine-looking vessel which had
recently made its appearance. Various were
the conjectures as to whither she was bound
and to what country she belonged. It was
every one's opinion she approached us, and
no little pleasure was experienced at the idea
of having a vessel so near us, after having
been several days without one. The captain
seemed alarmed, and kept continually looking at her with his glass, and shortly afterwards the sailors were seen all busy cleaning
out the guns, and preparing them for action.
By and by it became whispered on board
that the vessel was a pirate, and the busy
manner in which the seamen were employed
at their guns tended to confirm the conjecture. The captain caused all to come on
deck. His motives were immediately made
out; meanwhile the vessel, which was a good
sailer, kept growing nearer, and every thing
betokened hostility. We were all in agitation; even the captain and the sailors turned
pale with excitement. Every eye was intent
on the vessel, and every muscle betokened
alarm. She was now within the range of our
guns, which were ready for action. At length
she hoisted a colour, and immediately a large
spreading flag was unfurled on our ship. A
breathless silence succeeded; that moment
was indescribable. The flags then flying
were symbols of peace. Three cheers, spontaneously given, immediately succeeded. A
thrill of transport moved the ship, and not a
few wept for joy. Our captain, with a trumpet, asked their intentions; he was answered
in English from the other ship that they were
sailing to the West Indies, and having encountered a storm, they had injured their
time-keeper, and could not ascertain their
longitude. We gave them all the information
they required, and parted with cheerings
which were responded to by the other ship,
which we soon afterwards lost sight of.(4)
The following day a sailor on the mast
announced the appearance of land, a declaration which was eagerly received; during the
remainder of the day the passengers were
constantly on the look-out, and before night
we had the unspeakable pleasure of knowing
for ourselves that land was visible. The next
day we passed several small islands clad in
all the beauty of summer; we were sufficiently near some of them to discover negroes at work besides their little huts, coconut trees and many other kinds, the names
of which I cannot give, being not very near
them, and but imperfectly conversant with
the productions of tropical regions. The
weather was here excessively hot: but a large
sail-cloth being put up to shade us from the
sun, we almost invariably remained on deck,
feasting our eyes with the luxuriant and
beautiful appearance of the numerous little
islands we were continually passing. I am
not aware that the West Indian islands surpass others in beauty, but on account of the
length of time we had been without seeing
land, we were incessant in our encomiums
upon them. Never, thought I, had I seen
anything so lovely; I could have wished this
the situation of our future abode, this the
America so long in anticipation. The two
following days no land was visible, a circumstance attended with considerable uneasiness, as we had begun to consider our voyage at an end. On the morning of the third,
however, land was again visible, and this
was America- A sort of melancholy came
creeping over me as I gazed upon it; portentous, perhaps, of the many hardships I was
destined there to endure. We were now in
the mouth of the Mississippi; that night a
large lantern was suspended on the mast, as
a signal for the pilot to come on board and
take charge of the ship. Early the next
morning, while it was yet dark, my husband,
who had been on deck most of the night,
came to invite me thither. I followed him
shortly afterwards, and beheld a fine large
city lighted in a most splendid manner: its
appearance was really brilliant, and gave me
more exalted ideas of the country to which
we were hastening. That morning, by break
of day, a small boat came cutting the water
almost with the speed of the wind; it was
rowed along by four black sailors on each
side; a dignified person was seated in the
midst of them; it was the pilot; he came
alongside the ship, and was taken on board
with his boat and men. After respectful
compliments had passed between him and
the captain, he undertook the management
of the ship, his own sailors obeying his commands, while ours were relieved from duty
to enjoy themselves in chanting their native melodies, which they did most heartily,
almost to the annoyance of the pilot and his
men. This was Sunday morning, the first in
November; we had been on board two
months and a few days—a period on which
I never look back without emotion, as it reminds me of the anxieties I then endured,
and of the consequences which that voyage involved.
Chapter 3
As I intimated in the preceding chapter, we reached New Orleans on Sunday morning; but when I came to
survey the town more leisurely, I could
scarcely believe it was the Lord's day. I
remembered that frequently on our passage
I had heard it remarked that the time varied
with the time in England a few hours, and
for a moment I supposed that the Sabbath
varied also. The reader will perceive the
cause of my surprise, when he is told that
the shops were every where open, stalls set
out in all directions, and the streets thronged
with lookers-on more in the manner of a fair
than a Christian Sabbath. This I was told
was the general method of spending that day
in New Orleans. With regard to the inhabitants, their appearance was exceedingly peculiar, their complexions varying almost as
much as their features; from the deep black
of the flat-nosed negro to the sickly pale hue
of the American showman. This city is a
regular rendezvous for merchants and tradesmen of every kind, from all quarters of the
globe. Slavery is here tolerated in its grossest forms. I observed several groups of
slaves linked together in chains, and driven
about the streets like oxen under the yoke.
The river, which is of immense width, affords
a sight not less unique than the city. No
one, except eye-witnesses, can form an adequate idea of the number and variety of vessels there collected, and lining the river for
miles in length. New Orleans being the provision market for the West Indies and some
of the Southern States, its port is frequented
not merely by foreign traders, but by thousands of small craft, often of the rudest construction, on which the settlers in the interior bring down the various produce of their
climate and industry. (5)
The town itself, from
its low marshy situation, is very unhealthy;
the yellow fever is an everlasting scourge to its
inhabitants, annually carrying off great numbers. As a trading port, New Orleans is the
most famous and the best situated of any in
America; but whoever values a comfortable
climate or a healthy situation, will not, I
am sure, choose to reside there.
But to resume my narrative: having arrived at the port, it was our intention to proceed immediately up the river to St. Louis;
but as no steam vessel left till the next day,
we remained on board in front of the town.
The custom-house officers had not yet been
on board to examine the ship, but as we had
nothing for which duty would be required,
our captain gave my husband a document to
present to the inspectors, by which we were
allowed to pass early the next morning. Before entering the steam vessel, we got the
remainder of our money, all in English sovereigns, exchanged into American dollars.
We found that our expenses, since leaving
home, amounted to about twenty-three
pounds. On leaving the ship I felt a renewal
of my home-sickness, to use a quaint expression; it seemed to be the only remaining link
between me and England. I was now going
to be an alien among strangers. Hitherto I
had been accompanied by persons, who when
my pain on leaving home manifested itself,
could sympathize with me. I should have
preferred the meanest passenger on the ship
to any I saw on the packet. As, however, we
were all in haste to be on our way, I had little
time to spend on those tender associations.
I certainly left the ship with an aching heart;
the captain and cabin passengers had been
very kind to us during the voyage, and on
going away my children were severally presented with small tokens of approbation, of
which they were not a little proud.
I must now leave the ship to pursue my
route up the stream of the Mississippi to St.
Louis, a distance of not less than thirteen
hundred miles. The country on each side of
the river is of a dead level, but to all appearance exceedingly productive, and cultivated
with considerable pains. On account of the
heat which prevails in these districts, the
productions of tropical regions are here
grown in great abundance. The extensive
plantations, notwithstanding their flat appearance, are exceedingly beautiful; and if
any thing could have made me forget that I
was an unsettled exile, the scenery of the
country bordering this river must have done
it. There was, nevertheless, one drawback:
these beautiful plantations are cultivated by
slaves, many of whom we saw as we passed
along. As we had regularly to stop by the
way to obtain timber for our fires, that being
the fuel invariably used by the steamers on
this river, we had frequent opportunities of
stepping ashore. On one occasion a passenger seeing a negro smoking his pipe by his
little cabin, which was just at hand, took the
liberty of going up to him for the purpose of
begging a little fruit, which hung in plenty
on the trees around. The negro, without
hesitation, granted his request; and our hero
immediately mounted a tree, which he partially stripped of its juicy burden. This little
incident might have passed unnoticed, had
not the intruder on descending from the tree
made use of a kind of box, which was underneath, to break his fall; its structure was too
slender for so unusual a load, and in consequence he burst in the top to the terror of the
negro, who immediately darted across the
orchard, leaving our companion to make the
best of his misfortune. The latter was soon
convinced that he had committed a blunder,
as the box was a bee-hive, and its occupants,
aware they had been insulted, would accept
no apology, but drawing their sabres attacked their foe with tremendous fury. Poor
Yankee was no Leonidas; but with all the
speed his heels could muster betook himself
to the packet, where he was greeted with
roars of laughter by his less enterprising associates.
As we proceeded up the river the country
assumed a more rude and uncultivated appearance: the date and plantain tree of the
lower regions were exchanged for majestic
forest trees and untrodden wilds. Further
down it was delightfully pleasant; here magnificently grand eternal forests, in appearance as interminable as the universe, with
here and there a patch of ground rudely cultivated by the hand of a lonely settler, constitute the scenery for thousands of miles
contiguous to this matchless stream. As to
the river itself, I shall not attempt a description of it; what has already been said proves
its magnitude to be immensely great; even
some of its branches, as the Ohio and the
Missouri, are to be classed among the largest
rivers in the world. The former (6) is noted for
being very muddy, and hurrying in its ungovernable career vast quantities of floating
timber, which, decayed by age or other
causes, fall into it so as often to render it
dangerous for the steamers to pass along.
Of these the Mississippi contains acres, that
coming from above, have in the lapse of
years gradually settled together in places
where the current is least active.
Proceeding with my narrative, I must confess I liked the packet much better than I
expected. We had engaged to find our own
provisions, but on account of their cheapness, or partly because I acted the part of
matron to such as needed my assistance, we
were frequently presented with young fowls,
coffee, rice, etc., so that our food cost us very
little on the river. During this transit we
obtained considerable information respecting Illinois, which tended in some degree to
lessen our disquietude. We were nevertheless very far from being at ease; our unsettled condition was ever the uppermost in our
thoughts, and shed a settled gravity over
our conduct. Whilst thus the subjects of
painful uncertainty, we were one night much
alarmed by the following attempt to rob us:
my husband and I were in our berths; I was
fast asleep, but he was awake, musing upon
our situation, when a black man, one of the
crew, knowing we were going to settle in the
country, and thinking no doubt we should
have money with us, came to the side of our
berths and began to search under my pillow,
so softly indeed as not to awake me; he was
going to examine under my husband's likewise, but as he was awake, he told him he
could get him anything he wanted; such unexpected kindness was immediately understood, and the villain disappeared in a moment. Although this attempt proved a complete failure, we were induced to give up our
money to the captain the following day,
which he kept till we arrived at St. Louis.
As my husband kept the money under his
pillow, I have never looked back on this circumstance but with feelings of gratitude to
Almighty God for his protecting providence,
for had he succeeded, we should have been
in a most miserable situation, not even able
to reach the end of our journey;—destitute
and penniless in a strange land, without
friends and without home.
The time occupied in passing from New
Orleans to St. Louis was about twelve days.
We reached the latter place about noon, and
found another steamer ready to convey us
forward to the situation at which we purposed to remain. I had little opportunity of
surveying the town, and therefore can say
little respecting it; but was somewhat surprised to find that this noted city should be
built principally of wood; its situation is not
the most eligible as it regards health, being
near the confluence of the Missouri and the
Illinois. It is however on that very account
likely to become a large and wealthy city,
and is indeed by some described as such
already.(7)
On entering the second steamer I
found I had made a poor exchange; the
weather was beginning to feel uncommonly-chill, and our accommodation was here very
inferior, so that we felt exceedingly anxious
to be at our journey's end.
The place at which we intended to leave
the river was not more than one hundred and
twenty miles from St. Louis; we therefore
comforted ourselves with the idea that we
should soon be there. We were finally to disembark at Phillip's Ferry, according to the
directions sent by the aforementioned Mr.
B. to his brother. We should then be within
two miles of his residence. Mr. B., therefore,
and Phillip's Ferry, occupied our thoughts
almost to the exclusion of every other subject. We had already travelled nearly seven
thousand miles. Our food had been principally dried provisions. For many long weeks
we had been oppressed with anxious suspense; there is therefore no cause for wonder,
that, jaded and worn out as we were, we felt
anxious to be at our destined situation. Our
enquiries of the sailors 'how much further
we had to go,' almost exhausted their patience. Already we had been on the vessel
twenty-four hours, when just at nightfall the
packet stopped: a little boat was lowered
into the water, and we were invited to collect
our luggage and descend into it, as we were
at Phillip's Ferry; (8) we were utterly confounded: there was no appearance of a landing place, no luggage yard, nor even a building of any kind within sight; we, however,
attended to our directions, and in a few minutes saw ourselves standing by the brink of
the river, bordered by a dark wood, with no
one near to notice us or tell us where we
might procure accommodation or find harbor. This happened, as before intimated,
as the evening shades were rapidly settling
on the earth, and the stars through the clear
blue atmosphere were beginning to twinkle.
It was in the middle of November, and
already very frosty. My husband and I
looked at each other till we burst into tears,
and our children observing our disquietude
began to cry bitterly. Is this America,
thought I, is this the reception I meet with
after my long, painfully anxious and bereaving voyage? In vain did we look around us,
hoping to see a light in some distant cabin.
It was not, however, the time to weep: my
husband determined to leave us with our
luggage in search of a habitation, and
wished us to remain where we then stood
till he returned. Such a step I saw to be
necessary, but how trying! Should he lose
himself in the wood, thought I, what will
become of me and my helpless offspring?
He departed: I was left with five young
children, the youngest at my breast. When
I survey this portion of my history, it
looks more like fiction than reality; yet it
is the precise situation in which I was then
placed.
After my husband was gone I caused my
four eldest children to sit together on one of
our beds, covered them from the cold as well
as I could, and endeavored to pacify them.
I then knelt down on the bare ground, and
committed myself and little ones to the
Father of mercies, beseeching him 'to be a
lantern to my feet, a light unto my path, and
to establish my goings.' I rose from my
knees considerably comforted, and endeavored to wait with patience the return of my
husband. Above me was the chill blue canopy of heaven, a wide river before me, and
a dark wood behind. The first sound we
heard was that of two dogs that came barking towards us, so as greatly to increase our
alarm; the dogs came up to us, but did us no
harm, and very soon after I beheld my dear
husband, accompanied by a stranger, who
conducted us to his habitation, whither our
luggage was shortly afterwards removed in
a waggon.
My husband had followed a sort of cattle
track, which led him to the house, which had
been concealed by trees and underwood
growing around it. And now, for the first
time in my life, did I fairly see the interior
of a log-house, which, however rude I might
think it, I felt, as the reader will readily believe, most happy to enter. It was much
more comfortable to sleep on a bed laid on
the floor before a fire of glowing embers, than
it would have been on the cold ground, which
a short time before I feared would be my
lodging. The following morning, after a
comfortable night's repose, we felt our health
and spirits improved. My husband began to
examine the soils and produce of the country, and I to collect what information I could
respecting American housewifery, manners,
religion, etc.. Our hostess was a little woman,
exceedingly fond of smoking, as the Americans generally are, particularly the females.
Before leaving England I had heard a great
deal said in behalf of American hospitality,
but these encomiums certainly require to be
qualified: they are exceedingly hospitable
to gentlemen who may be making a tour,
likewise amongst themselves as neighbours;
but when they know a person really must
trouble them, they appear to be aware they
are conferring a favour, and expect an equivalent. The little lady I have been describing
knew little of generosity; we understood very
soon that we should be expected to pay for
our harbour, although we used our own provisions. I am forgetting that on one occasion she generously told me I might give my
children the broth in which she had boiled
some cabbage, if I thought they would drink
it; I told her they had not been accustomed
to such fare. We remained here three days,
during which I became tolerably conversant
in the theory of American housekeeping,
and as Mrs. Phillips (9) (that was the name
of our hostess) was very loquacious, she initiated me into the peculiarities of Illinois
politeness. No person, however slender his
pretensions to knighthood, or how long soever the time since his small-clothes were
new, is addressed without the courteous
epithet of 'Sir;' and this practice is observed by the members of the same family
in their intercourse with each other; of
course the females are in like manner honoured with 'Madam/Ubi tu Caius ego
Caia.' It is not etiquette in Illinois to sit
at the table after you have done eating; to
remain after you have finished your meal
implies that you have not had sufficient.
This custom I subsequently found a very
convenient one.
But I am forgetting the house. It was a
fair specimen of a log-house, and therefore a
description of it will give the reader a pretty
correct idea of the American peasantry.
There were two rooms, both on the ground
floor, separated from each other with boards
so badly joined, that crevices were in many
places observable. The rooms were nearly
square, and might contain from thirty to
forty square yards each; beneath one of the
rooms was a cellar, the floor and sides of
which were mud and clay, as left when first
dug out; the walls of the house consisted of
layers of strong blocks of timber, roughly
squared and notched into each other at the
corners; the joints filled up with clay. The
house had two doors, one of which is always
closed in winter, and open in summer to
cause a draught. The fire was on the floor at
the end of the building, where a very grotesque chimney had been constructed of
stones gathered out of the land, and walled
together with clay and mud instead of cement. It was necessarily a great width, to
prevent the fire from communicating with
the building. The house was covered with
oak shingles; that is to say, thin riven
boards nailed upon each other, so as just to
over-reach. The floors of the house were
covered with the same material, except a
large piece near the fire, which was paved
with small stones, also gathered from the
land. There was no window to the house I
am describing, although many log-houses
may now be found having glass windows.
This inconvenience I pointed out to my hostess, who replied, 'upon the whole it was as
well without, for in winter the house was
warmer and in summer they had always the
door open, which was better than any window.
It is in reality true, that the want of
light is felt very little in a log-house; in
winter they are obliged to keep fine blazing
fires, which, in addition to the light obtained from their low wide chimneys, enable
the inmates to perform any business that is
requisite.
It is however by no means to be understood that an American log house equals in
comfort and convenience a snug English cottage. It is quite common to see, at least, one
bed in the same room as that in which the
fire is kept; a practice which invariably gives
both the bed and house a filthy appearance.
There was no chamber, only a sort of loft,
constructed rather with a view to make the
house warmer, than to afford additional
room. Adjoining one side were a few boards
nailed together in the form of a table, and
supported principally by the timber in the
wall. This was dignified with the name 'sideboard.' In the centre of the room, stood
another small table, covered with a piece of
coarse brown calico; this was the dining
table. The chairs, four in number, were the
most respectable furniture in the house, having bark of chichory platted for bottoms. Besides these there were two stools and a bench
for common use,—a candlestick made from
an ear of Indian corn, two or three trenchers
and a few tin drinking vessels. One corner of
the house was occupied with agricultural implements, consisting of large hoes, axes, etc.,
for stubbing, called in America grubbing,
flails and wooden forks, all exhibiting specimens of workmanship rather homely. Various herbs were suspended from the roof with
a view of being medicinally serviceable, also
two guns, one of them a rifle. There were
also several hams and sides of bacon, smoked
almost till they were black; two or three
pieces of beef, etc.. Under one of the beds
were three or four large pots filled with
honey, of which Mrs. P. was not a little lavish, as she used it to every meal along with
coffee. The furniture in the other room consisted of two beds and a hand-loom, with
which the family wove the greater part of
their own clothes. In the cellar I observed
two or three large hewn tubs, full of lard,
and a lump of tobacco, the produce of their
own land, in appearance sufficient to serve
an ordinary smoker his life.
During our sojourn at Mr. Phillips', my
husband found Mr. B., and on the third day
after our arrival, brought that gentleman's
team, two stiff oxen yoked to a clumsy
sledge; on which we placed our beds, boxes,
etc.. and bid good by to Mrs. P., who, as we
paid her for our harbour, contrived to shed
a tear or two at the thoughts of parting.
After arriving at Mr. B.'s house, I certainly
felt I had been a little cajoled. My husband
had seen him the day before, but had made
no mention of his condition. He was in the
fields when we arrived; but as the door was
unlocked, or rather lockless, we took the
liberty of introducing ourselves and luggage.
Mr. B. was at once a bachelor and solitaire.
He had left England precipitately, and what
is more unusual, a great part of his money,
which at this time he was daily expecting by
a remittance. The property he had taken
with him was all expended in land and cattle,
so that a little money was a desideratum.
Shortly after our arrival, Mr. B. made his
appearance, which, as I before intimated,
was rather mysterious. In his letters sent
to England, he had spoken of his situation as
'a land flowing with milk and honey'; but I
assure you patient reader, his appearance
would have led any one to suppose that he
gathered his honey rather from thorns than
flowers. He was verily as ragged as a sheep:
too much so for decency to describe. And
his house was more like the cell of a hermit
who aims at super-excellence by enduring
privations than the cottage of an industrious
peasant. The bed on which he slept was only
like a bolster which he had used on shipboard, and laid upon a kind of shelf of his
own constructing. Then again the walls of
his house were of hewn timber as others, but
the joinings or interstices were left quite
open. The first night I passed in this miserable abode I was almost perished. My husband was obliged to heat a flat iron, and
after wrapping it in flannel, apply it to my
feet, so little were we protected from the
inclemency of the weather. Finding our comforts here so few, we determined to have a
home of our own as soon as possible. Mr. B.
was too busy in his farm to render my husband much assistance in selecting a piece of
ground. Besides the condition of his haut-dechaussex (Meaning, his trousers). rendered it almost imperative upon
him to keep near home, especially as he was
a bachelor.
Before I proceed any further with my narrative, perhaps it will be of advantage to the
reader to explain the method of purchasing
land in the United States. The land in the
various states has all been surveyed by direction of the government, and divided into
portions of eighty acres each. For the sale
of the land thus surveyed and laid down on
large plans, a land-office is established in
various central situations, where all the
allotments of a certain district are sold, and
the purchasers' names registered. Any person, therefore, who wishes to purchase one
or more of these subsections, can see the
plan, and select any that are unsold. They
will even sell as small a quantity as forty
acres; but as they do this merely to accommodate new settlers, no person already possessing eighty acres, can purchase a smaller
quantity than that at a time. In some of the
older states the government lands are all
sold off. It must there be bought of private
owners; but in Illinois and other new states
there is plenty unsold. The government
price everywhere is one hundred dollars for
eighty acres. As there are myriads of acres
yet in its native luxuriant wildness, any person may with impunity cultivate as much as
he chooses without paying anything; and,
as a further inducement, when a person begins thus to cultivate, no other person can
legally purchase that land, till four years
have expired from the time of his beginning
to cultivate. By obtaining what is termed a
preemption the improvement arising from
his own industry is as secure to him for
four years as if he was the actual owner.
Should, however, he fail to pay for the land
before the term expires, an indifferent person may then purchase it; but this seldom
happens. Every person purchasing land at
the office, must declare upon oath, if required, that no other party has an improvement on it. And, if it be proved to be other-
wise, such purchase is in every case invalid;
and the fraudulent party liable to a heavy
fine.
An improved eighty acres was the first
land we purchased: we obtained it in the
following manner:—A person named Mr.
Oakes (10) having heard that a family about to
settle was sojourning at Mr. B.'s came to
invite my husband to buy some venison,
which he had killed with his rifle just before.
My husband went with him, and in conversation found he was disposed to sell his improvement right; for the four years were not
expired, and he had not entered it at the
land office. For this right he wanted sixty
dollars. My husband told him he would call
upon him the next day, and returned to Mr.
B.'s after buying a quantity of nice venison
at a halfpenny per pound. The following
day, my husband and I visited at Mr.
Oakes's, who took us round the estate,
shewed us the boundaries, which were
marked out by large stones set at each corner, termed the corner stones.
On the land there were about four hundred sugar maples which Mr. Oakes had
tapped the preceding year. These trees grow
plentifully in the United States, and promise
with proper culture to supersede the use of
West Indian sugar in America. They like a
low situation and a deep soil, and grow to a
larger size than any trees in this country.
They are said to thrive the better the oftener
they are pierced. The method of obtaining
sugar from them is very simple. A small
cabin, or, as it is there termed, camp, is built
in the midst of the trees; two or three large
coppers, holding from five to ten gallons
each, are set within it, to boil the liquor,
which being drained from the trees into
hewn wooden troughs, is carried into the
camp. The incisions are made with an auger
in the beginning of March, when the sap is
beginning to rise. Into each of these holes a
tube is inserted, about an inch in diameter,
so as just to fill the hole, through this the
liquor flows as through a spout. The tree
from which these tubes are made, is admirably adapted for the purpose, growing
somewhat like the elder, only its branches
are straighter and contain more pith. It is
usually called in Illinois the shoemaker's
tree,(11)
its botanical name I do not know.
The most suitable weather for the discharge
of this liquor is when the days are fine and
the nights frosty. After the liquor is thus
collected, it is boiled down to the consistency
of thin treacle. It is then strained through
a coarse woollen cloth, and afterwards boiled
again at a slower fire till it becomes hard and
firm like raw sugar. It is at present much
used in the United States, and always sells
at a higher rate than that from the West
Indies. On the land now under consideration, Mr. Oakes had broken up about twelve
acres, three of which were sown with wheat,
and the remaining nine ready to be sown
with Indian corn, oats, etc.. the following
spring. As we liked the situation and land
very much and were wishful to be settled,
the agreement was completed that evening,
and the money paid and possession obtained
the following day. The reader is aware that
the sixty dollars given to Mr. Oakes, were
only for his house, improvement right, sugarmaking utensils, etc.. One hundred more we
paid at the land office, at Quincy, and we obtained the usual certificate or title deeds; and
thus by the first of December, having spent
about thirty pounds in travelling, thirty-five
more in land, we were the rightful owners
of a farm of eighty acres, with a log house in
the centre of it (12). What more could we require? The reader will perceive in the next
chapter.
Chapter 4
During the time we were at lodgings
we had felt ourselves dependent, and
looked forward with anxious expectation to the time when we might again taste
the sweets and independence of home, and
those enjoyments which are only to be expected at one's own fireside. That period
had now arrived. We had indeed a house
such as I have already described, but we had
no furniture except two large boxes, two
beds, and a few pots and cooking utensils;
besides, our provisions were just finished.
Till this time we had been using principally
the remains of biscuits, etc., purchased at
New Orleans. The first wants of nature
must be first attended to: whether we had a
chair to sit on or not, something to eat we
must have. Our nearest neighbour lived
about half-a-mile from us, and we were at
least two miles and a-half from any place at
which flour was sold; thither, however, my
husband went, and as our money was growing scarce, he bought a bushel of ground Indian corn, which was only one-third the price
of wheaten flour; it was there sold for thirty
cents a bushel. Its taste is not pleasant to
persons unaccustomed to it; but as it is
wholesome food, it is much used for making bread. We had now some meal, but no
yeast, nor an oven; we were therefore obliged
to make sad paste, and bake it in our frying
pan on some hot ashes. We procured a little
milk of our nearest neighbour, Mr. Paddock,
which, on account of the severe frosts that
prevail in Illinois, we generally received in
lumps of ice.
Thus we lived the first few weeks at our
new estate. Hasty pudding, sad bread, and
a little venison which we had left, were our
ordinary food. The greater part of my husband's time was spent in cutting and preparing wood for our fires. About this time
we made further purchases of a cow and
calf, for which we paid fourteen dollars, a
young mare, which cost us twenty dollars,
two pigs, and a shallow flat-bottomed iron
pan, with a cover to it, to bake in. This is
the common, and indeed almost the only
kind of oven used in Illinois. It is vulgarly
called a skillet. To make it hot it is immersed in glowing embers, the lid is then
removed till the dough is put in; it is then
replaced and ashes again thrown over it, till
the cake is baked. Hence it will be perceived
that a quantity of bread beforehand is unknown in Illinois: their custom is to bake a
cake to each meal, which is generally very
good; eggs and milk being so plentiful, are
regularly used in their bread, along with a
little celeratus to lighten it, whereby it becomes very rich and nutritive.
The Illinois settlers live somewhat differently from the English peasantry; the former
have only three meals a-day, and not much
variety in them: bread, butter, coffee, and
bacon, are always brought to the table, but
fresh meat is a rarity, and is never obtained
as in England by going to a butcher for it.
In Illinois the farmers all kill their own cattle, and salt what is not used immediately;
sometimes, however, they distribute portions among their neighbours, with the view
of receiving as much again when they kill
theirs. It is by no means uncommon for an
old settler to have a couple of fowls, ducks,
a goose, or a turkey to dinner; and, generally
speaking, everybody has plenty of plain good
food. [The object contemplated in this work
requires that I should occasionally leave my
own history, to render more complete the
information I have to impart; I hope, therefore, the reader will not think me incoherent.
To proceed:] we bought the live stock above
described of Mr. Oakes, and as it was winter,
we wanted something with which to feed
them. Indian corn is nearly the only winter
food used in Illinois; and as the culture and
management of it occupy a great portion of
the farmer's time and industry, it may be
not out of place to explain the method of
cultivating it: the land intended for Indian
corn should be ploughed and harrowed once
or twice to make the earth loose and mellow,
that the roots may strike with greater freedom; furrows are then made at the distance
of about a yard from each other: these are
afterwards crossed by other furrows made
at right angles to the first, and about the
same distance apart; by this means the field
appears divided into numberless little square
portions, each somewhat less than a square
yard as if hollowed at the centre; into each of
these crossings four seeds are thrown, and
slightly covered with a hoe; this is done in
the beginning of March, and after the young
blades make their appearance the plough is
occasionally drawn along between the rows,
for the purpose of checking weeds and keeping the mould as light as possible; as these
groups of plants are so far apart, kidney
beans, melons, and pumpkins are frequently
sown among them, for which the strong
stems of the corn are excellent supports.
Indian corn usually ripens about the beginning of October, and is of an immense
produce. There are commonly four or five
ears to each stem, each ear having from five
hundred to a thousand grains in it. (13)
As the
ears ripen they gradually assume a pendent
form, and are in that position severally overhung with the leaves of the plant, which
form a sort of sheath, securely protecting
them from rain; in this manner, when properly ripened, it will remain in perfect safety
all winter uncut; and it is by no means uncommon to sow the land with wheat before
the corn crop is all removed. It is not always
allowed to ripen; part of the crop is often
cut, when the corn is about half-fed, which
being dried in the sun, the stem and leaves
make excellent hay; in this state it is both
hay and corn, and is in fact the only hay the
farmer preserves for winter, of which he
makes small stacks of a peculiar construction, so as not to require thatching. Nothing can be more beautiful than a field of
Indian corn in full blossom, and perhaps
nothing in nature displays the munificence of
Providence more strikingly than this matchless plant. In order to supply our cattle with
winter meat, we applied to Mr. Paddock, our
nearest neighbour, who sold us part of a field
unreaped; some of it we cut down and took
home, the rest we allowed to stand and
turned our cattle to it. The reader may think
it strange that we should turn cattle into the
fields in the depth of winter, especially as
the winters are there more severe than in
England; it is however the regular custom:
the cattle are inured to it, as they are never
kept up any part of the year, either day or
night. The two pigs we had bought we were
obliged to kill shortly after we purchased
them, as we wanted them for our own use, and
we wished to spare the small stock of Indian
corn we had on hand. The reader must also
know our money was nearly done: I believe
we had not more than four or five dollars remaining; part of it we were obliged to spend
in sulphur, to cure what is called the Illinois
mange, from which we were all suffering.
This complaint invariably attacks new settlers, shortly after their arrival, and is a complete scourge until it is removed. The body
breaks out all over in little spots, attended
with intolerable itching. It is generally attributed to the change of water, but as theirs
possesses no peculiarity of taste, I cannot
understand how that can be the cause. We
were soon cured after using the sulphur, and
never felt anything more of it. (14)
It has already been said that when we entered our house we had no furniture; this inconvenience my husband, although no joiner,
had undertaken to remove, by making for
himself and me each a stool, and a low bench
for our children, or more properly a log of
wood, squared and laid across the hearth for
a seat. He had also contrived to make a
table, which if not as neat as those used in
England, was quite as substantial: having
met with a section of a strong tree about two
feet long, he rolled it into the house, and set
it upon its end; had it been a little longer, its
upper surface would have been just what we
wanted; we however nailed a few boards
upon it, making them fit as well as we could,
and having covered it with a cloth to conceal
its roughness, it was far from being contemptible, at least for persons like us, who
had been some days without any. As to
bedsteads, we were a few weeks before we
got any; of course we had them to make ourselves, and as we were ill furnished with
tools and unaccustomed to such employment, when they were finished they served
rather to shew how little ornament is absolutely necessary, than our skill as expert carpenters.
Hitherto the light of the fire had served us
instead of a candle, which was very inconvenient, as I wished to sew a little in the evenings. It is certainly true that days are
never so short as in England, nevertheless
we were very wishful to have some candles.
The inhabitants commonly make their own,
in tin moulds; but as we had neither moulds
nor tallow, we were obliged to put a little
lard into a saucer, and light a piece of rag
previously inserted in it; by this we could see
to sew and read pretty well; but as the rag
frequently got immersed in the melted lard
it was very troublesome, and by constant
use we had three or four saucers broken with
the heat, a circumstance much to be regretted, as pots of all kinds are dear in Illinois. To prevent a recurrence of this misfortune we ultimately made use of our kettle
lid, inserting the knob or holder into a piece
of board to make it stand.
Our next great inconvenience was want of
soap: having however learnt from Mrs. Phillips the method of making it, we were by this
time in a state of readiness for supplying ourselves. The reader will remember we had
before this time killed two pigs, the entrails
of which we had cleaned and preserved,
along with the bits of offal, rendering, scraps, and now the finest of our ashes were
collected and put into a large wooden trough,
and boiling water poured over them, whence
we obtained a strong solution of potash,
which we poured off and boiled down; fresh
ashes were then used as before, and a fresh
solution obtained; the whole was next boiled
down to about one third of the original quantity, by which means the solution became so
caustic, that it would have taken the skin off
one's fingers in a moment. In this state the
waste meat and entrails were mixed with it,
which it very soon assimilated. After it had
obtained the consistency of soft soap, it was
poured into a vessel appropriated for the
purpose, to be ready for use.
This is the manner the American peasantry supply themselves with soap. Their
practice of burning wood furnishes them
with potash, which they saturate with other
ingredients as above described. Since we
were thus obliged to provide necessaries for
ourselves in a manner very different from
that to which we had been accustomed in
England, it may be asked if there are no
shops in that country. Illinois, it must be
known, is very thinly populated, and on that
account it is not the situation for shopkeepers. There are, however, in various places,
what are termed store keepers, who supply
the settlers with articles the most needed,
such as food, clothing, implements of husbandry, medicine, and spirituous liquors: for
which they receive in exchange the produce
of their farms, consisting of wheat, Indian
corn, sugar, beef, bacon, etc.. As these store-keepers exercise a sort of monopoly over a
certain district, their profits are great, and
they often become wealthy. Besides their
store, they often have a saw-mill and a corn-mill, at which they grind the corn they obtain from the farmers, for the purpose of
sending it to New Orleans, or some other
place where it can be readily sold. Stores
therefore are in Illinois, nearly what markets
are in England, only there is more barter in
the former country. The mills in that neighbourhood are chiefly turned by water.
We were destined to be unfortunate with
the young mare we had purchased of Mr.
Oakes. Having been accustomed to run in
the fields with other horses, she would not
settle with our cow and calf. Every day she
was lost; no fences could turn her. We were
therefore obliged to sell her, or rather exchange for one not near so good; only she
was expected to have a foal the following
spring. Shordy after we had parted with the
young mare, my husband found two strange
horses in the field feeding upon our corn, he
turned them out and returned home. On
going to the field again they were there a
second time; he felt assured some one had
turned them in, as the fences were all good.
The next morning explained the circumstance, for the horses being in the field as
before, he was about to drive them out, when
a tall man hastened towards him, and bade
him desist, telling him that the horses were
his and he intended them to be there. My
husband remonstrated with him on the injustice of such behaviour, and persevered in
his attempts to drive them out; at which the
person, whose name was Brevet, went up to
him, and struck him a blow on the forehead
with his fist, and threatened further violence
if he did not allow them to remain. Seeing
that physical force was the only available
argument, my husband began to prepare for
resistance; but calling to mind the situation
of his family, and not knowing what perfidy
might be resorted to, he wisely concluded to
leave the man and his horses where they
were. I mention this circumstance principally to shew how much we were indebted to
an over-ruling Providence for the preservation of my husband's life on this occasion.
We afterwards learnt that Brevet was a pest
to the neighbourhood, and that he had told
one of his acquaintances of this interview,
and declared he would have stabbed my
partner with a large dirk which he always
carried with him, if he had resisted. In a
short time afterwards he left the neighbourhood, dreaded or detested by all who knew
him.
We have already seen that considerable
labour is required to prepare fuel, as a good
fire in America is essential during the winter
season. The frosts are intensely keen, a wide
river is sometimes iced over in a single night,
so as to be unnavigable. Every thing of a
fluid nature, exposed to the weather, is
formed into a solid. For two or three months
the milk freezing as soon as it is taken from
the cows, affords no cream, consequently no
butter. It is nevertheless possible to obtain
butter, by keeping the churn near the fire,
and churning cream and milk both together;
but as this method is exceedingly troublesome it is seldom practised. The nights in
winter are at once inexpressibly cold, and
poetically fine. The sky is almost invariably
clear, and the stars shine with a brilliancy
entirely unknown in the humid atmosphere
of England. Cold as it was, often did I, during the first winter, stand at the door of our
cabin, admiring their lustre and listening to
the wolves, whose howlings, among the leafless woods at this season, are almost unceasing. These animals are numerous in America; and, unless the sheep be regularly folded,
their depredations are extensively injurious,
as they lacerate the throats of nearly all the
flock; sometimes also they will seize young
pigs, but as they fear the old ones, unless
they are impelled by hunger, these animals
are not in much danger. The timid submissive sheep is always their favourite prey.
The reader will perceive we had not much
intercourse with the rest of the world. For a
while no one seemed to notice us, except
Mr. B., our neighbour Mr. Paddock, and
one Mr. Burns, who lived about two miles
off, (all are Misters in America.) But indeed
the villainous conduct of Mr. Brevet had
made us so suspicious, that we scarcely
knew whether to wish for an increased circle
of acquaintance, or entire seclusion. One
thing was very afflictive, our being deprived
of Christian Sabbath ordinances. We always
honoured that day, by abstaining from our
accustomed labour; we read our Bible, and
meditated thereon: but Sabbath after Sabbath passed away without our once being
able to assemble with those who 'keep holy
day,' or in the great congregation to unite our
tribute of praise, with the aspirations of
those whose sentiments are 'how amiable
are thy tabernacles O Lord of Hosts!' At
this time we were five miles from any place
where public worship was regularly conducted; subsequently preaching-houses much
nearer were opened, the character of which
will be noticed in its proper place.
The motives which occasioned this work
to be written require that a strict regard to
truth be maintained; and, in matters of fact,
that nothing be introduced calculated to
mislead, either by deterring or alluring; this
rule has hitherto been carefully observed.
Am I then asked if we thus far were satisfied
with the step we had taken, my answer is, we
regretted it very much. We had indeed
plenty of corn-bread and milk, but neither
beer nor tea; coffee was our chief beverage,
which we used very sparingly, for want of
money. All the water we wanted we had to
thaw, and during the nights, on account of
the severe frosts, we were very cold indeed;
although we always kept the fire burning.
Our bed-clothes we had taken with us from
England, and we were unable to procure any
more, as they were dear, and our means
almost exhausted. We had indeed some
good land, but it was nearly all uncultivated,
and we had nothing to sell except our cattle,
which we wanted. The only ground of hope
we had was in our industry and perseverance. My husband worked very hard; the
little time we had to spare, after feeding the
cattle and procuring fuel, was spent in splitting trees to make rails. All the fences here
are made of rails, there are no thorns in the
neighbourhood. The method of fencing is
peculiar: they use no posts; but having prepared their rails, they lay one down on the
ground, where they wish to make a fence;
not precisely in the same direction as the line
of their intended fence, but making a small
angle with it. Another rail is then laid down
with its end overreaching the first, with
which it forms a cross like the letter X, only
instead of the crossing being at the centre,
it is near the end of each rail. A third is then
made to cross the second as before, and so on
to an indefinite length. On each side of these
several crossings a stake is driven into the
ground to prevent their being removed.
Other rails are then placed upon these, crossing each other in a similar manner, till the
fence is as high as it is required. Generally
they are about nine rails high. From the
description here given, the reader will perceive that the fences are not straight as in
England, but in a continued zig-zag. The
reason for this difference is, timber and land
are of comparatively little value in America,
while their method requires less labour than
ours.
In this manner we spent our first winter;
we have plenty of work; our amusements even
tended to advantage. Great numbers of
quails frequented our home-stead to feed on
our small stock of Indian corn; we caught
several of them with snares, which were excellent eating. My husband also shot a few
rabbits, of which there are vast numbers in
America. We likewise saw several deer, but
as we had no rifle, we could not kill any. We
observed several kinds of birds, which we
had not before seen, one in particular, which
we took to be a species of turkey, engaged
our attention; my husband tried several
times to kill one, without effect. One Saturday, however, he was successful, and brought
home his game with as much apparent consciousness of triumph, as if he had slain some
champion hydra of the forest. The following
day we expected Mr. B., who by this time
had received his money, to dine with us. We
accordingly dressed our bird, and congratulated ourselves with the idea of having our
countryman to dine with us on a fine boiled
turkey. Sunday morning arrived, and in
due time our turkey was in the pot boiling
for dinner. Mr. B. came; we told him how
happy we were on account of the treat we
were going to give him. He was surprised
at our story, as those birds are difficult to
obtain with a common fowling-piece, and desired to see the feet and head. But the moment he saw them, he exclaimed 'it's a buzzard,' a bird which, we subsequently learnt,
gormandizes any kind of filth or carrion, and
consequently is not fit to be eaten. We were
sorely disappointed; our turkey was hoisted
into the yard, and we were obliged to be contented with a little bacon, and a coarse Indian corn pudding, for which our stomachs
were not altogether unprepared, although
recently in anticipation of more sumptuous
fare. The reader may think we were stupid
not to know a turkey; the bird in question is
very much like one, and indeed on that account is called in Illinois a turkey-buzzard.
As spring approached we felt some symptoms of those hopes which had animated us
in England with reference to our success as
emigrants. Man's career in prospective is
always brilliant; and it is providentially ordered that it should be so. Could we have
foreseen our destiny, the prospect would
have thrown us into despair. It would have
robbed us of much present enjoyment, and
unfitted our minds for the difficulties with
which we had to struggle. I am, however,
anticipating my history. The symptoms to
which I referred originated with the idea of
being the cultivators of our own land. How
those prospects were realized, the sequel will
explain. By the beginning of March our
Indian corn was done, and it had served so
long only through the greatest care. There
was however by this time a little fresh grass
in the woods, to which we were very glad to
turn our little stock, consisting as before
stated of a cow and calf, and a mare near
foaling. As this method of summering cattle
in America is peculiar to that country, and
affords to the farmer considerable advantages, I shall endeavour to be explicit in the
account of it, which I am about to give. I
must then premise that all unenclosed lands,
whether purchased of government or otherwise, are considered common pasturage; and
as there are in Illinois thousands of acres in
that state, any person can keep as many
cattle during summer as he chooses. They
are turned out at spring, and thus run where
they please. A person unacquainted with
these habits would naturally be afraid of
losing them in such immeasurable regions.
This, however, seldom happens. There are
few animals having a sufficiency of food that
are fond of ranging over strange domains.
Even in this country we observe foxes and
hares to have their favourite haunts, from
which it is difficult to break them. Domesticated animals manifest this principle of attachment still more strongly. Hence no
American farmer, having his cattle on the
range, would fear being able to find them in
a few hours; and indeed a person unacquainted with the haunts of any certain
herd, would most probably go directly towards them. Rivers and smaller streams
have certainly some confining influence, but
independent of that, their habits are to frequent those situations only to which they
are accustomed. In that country cattle have
a great liking for salt, and indeed it seems
essential to their health, particularly in summer. An English farmer would smile to see
a herd of cattle contending with each other
over a few handfuls of dry salt which had
been thrown on the floor for them. This is
seen every day in America. The milch cows
require more of it than the rest, and unless
they are regularly served with it, their milk
becomes unpleasant. This induces them to
come to their stand to be milked twice-a-day. Oxen and heifers will take no harm if
they have a little twice-a-week, or even not
so often. Where so many different herds of
cattle run at large, there is a greater danger
of their intermixing than of their being lost.
To prevent this, great care is taken by each
grazier at the spring to mark his own. Some
cut their ears in various ways. Others burn
certain marks on their horns with a hot iron.
There is not, however, much confusion. The
cattle which have been fed together during
winter, most generally associate with each
other in summer; all having an unaccountable attachment to the master beast of the
herd, apparently considering his presence a
source of protection or honour. For this reason the owner usually suspends a bell round
this animal's neck, which enables him to
find his cattle with greater ease. Hence the
phrase, 'bear the bell/ is common even in
this country. In this manner the cattle
graze during summer, and when the pasturage fails, they cease to range; but besetting
their master's cabin with incessant lowings
remind him that winter is approaching, and
that their claims to his bounty deserve attention, and must have it. At this time if
any strange cattle have joined the herd, the
law requires that the farmer cause them to
be valued, and their mark to be taken down
and sent to four of the nearest mills for publicity; if they are not owned within a year
they belong to the herd.
I must now leave our small herd of cattle
running in the woods, to acquaint the reader
with our first summer's performances and
success. The first fruits of our industry were
derived from our sugar orchard, the care of
which devolved principally on me. We were
in want of nearly all kinds of implements of
husbandry, without the means of procuring
them, except by running into debt, a practice which we felt reluctant to adopt. Our
sugar trees therefore at this time afforded us
a seasonable boon. The weather was favourable, and by hard working we made nearly
three hundred weight, besides a barrel of
molasses. We disposed of the greater part
of it to a store-keeper named Mr. Varley, at
the rate of seven or eight cents per pound. It
must not be understood that we got money
for it. Business is seldom transacted after
that manner in Illinois. My meaning is we
were allowed to take anything we wanted
from the store by paying for it with sugar at
the above rate. Our first care was to have
some Indian corn for seed, and some more
meal for our own use, which at that time we
wanted. We likewise obtained a little coffee,
two or three hoes, and a Yankee axe, which
is much larger and broader than the one
used in this country, and better adapted for
the every-day business of hewing large
blocks of timber for fuel and other purposes.
And now, kind reader, if thou hast any intentions of being an emigrant, I cordially
wish thee success; but before thou forsaken
the endearments of thy present home, consider the situation in which we were placed
with a helpless family dependent upon us.
Thou hast seen us expend our little money
with the utmost frugality; thou art acquainted with our possessions, real and personal. It was now the middle of March,
when Indian corn, the most useful produce
of that country, must be sown, or the season
would be past. We had land and seed, but
no plough, nor any team, except an old mare,
that we feared would scarcely live while she
foaled, and consequently we could not yoke
her. What could we do? If we did not sow
we could not reap; we should have nothing
to feed our cattle with the ensuing winter.
"Labor omnia vincit" was our motto. We set
to work with our hoes; I, husband, and son,
the latter under ten years of age, and day
after day, for three successive weeks, did we
toil with unwearied diligence till we had
sown and covered in nearly four acres. We
should probably have sown more, had not
the rains which fall in torrents at this season
prevented us. Whilst referring to the
weather, it will be proper to observe that
during the month of April in Illinois, a great
quantity of rain usually falls, accompanied
almost invariably with thunder storms of a
most awful character. A person who has
lived only in England can have but an imperfect conception of these electrical phenomena. They happen most frequently in
the night, which considerably increases their
power of striking terror through the most
intrepid bosom. The weather is at this time
close and sultry, and as the sun declines the
sky becomes gradually overcast; midnight
arrives, a pitchy darkness overhangs the
earth; by and by the wind begins to roar in
the trees, and the hoarse thunder in the distance announces the coming of the storm.
As it approaches the thunder claps wax
louder and louder, while the lightning begins to play across the gloomy firmament,
in a most awful and terrific manner. Every
moment the voice of the thunder acquires
additional compass, never ceasing even for a
moment; but before one peal has well broken
on the ear, it is drowned by another still
more tremendous and loud. The lightning
is even more overpowering than the thunder.
One moment all is in obscurity, a second the
heavens seem rent asunder, the bright blue
lightning dancing in all directions with a
frightful and deadly velocity; meanwhile the
rain descends in torrents, threatening to
sweep away the foundation of the dwelling.
The length of time these storms continue is
generally about an hour. The first I witnessed made an impression on my mind that
will never be forgotten; my senses were completely disordered: I became alarmed at the
slightest noise, and for a while felt more
afraid of a thunder storm than of any calamity which appeared in the power of misfortune to inflict upon me. Probably my late
anxieties and bereavement preying on my
mind had indisposed my nerves for such
phenomena, at once terrific, awful, and sublime. But whatever was the cause, I have
great pleasure in stating that I soon got the
better of my timidity. Trees have frequently
been struck near our house, but hitherto
no accident has befallen us. We now consider these storms rather as annoying than
dangerous; one reason perhaps is that a
dry log house is a bad conductor of the
electric fluid.
About this time we were sorely tormented
with another scourge, which unlike the one
just noticed, possessed exceedingly little of a
poetical or sublime character. It certainly
operated on the nerves powerfully enough,
but that in a manner rather calculated to
move the lower than the more elevated passions of our nature. I refer to the mosquitoes; swarms of which infest that country
during spring and autumn, much to the
annoyance of its inhabitants. This troublesome insect is not unlike the gnat, which in
this country so often terminates its existence
by flying into the candle. Its bite is slightly
venomous, causing small blisters somewhat
like those occasioned by the sting of a nettle,
only the pain attending it is more acute.
They are the most numerous in low situations, or among thick woods where the heat
is less oppressive. This insect cannot bear
great heats, and on that account is never
seen during the hottest weather, except in
very shady places. It is always most troublesome in the nights; and as it makes a constant humming when it flies, it is a most
noisy as well as a most unwelcome guest in
a lodging room. I do assure the reader I have
lain for hours together with a handkerchief
in my hand, fanning them from my face,
when a little sleep would have been a more
seasonable relaxation. Various methods are
practised to drive them off or avoid them.
We frequently made a fire at the door, and
covered it with green leaves to make as much
smoke as possible, and thereby to banish
them from the neighbourhood; but the moment the smoke was dissipated they again
made their appearance as numerous as flies
in England on a summer day. Many persons
make what are termed mosquito hangings
for their beds; these are constructed of laths
strung together so closely as not to allow a
space for them to pass through. They seldom are seen on the prairies, or indeed in
any place remote from thick shady woods;
thus some of our neighbours have been
quite free from them, while we were tortured incessantly. We however had the advantage of being near fuel, a consideration
of great importance in that country, especially as the soil of wood land is always
more valuable than that of the prairies,
and when cleared is likewise free from mosquitoes.
Having referred to the prairies, it may
perhaps be necessary to be a little more explicit. Many persons in England have a
wrong idea of the uncultivated lands in
America, imagining they are all wood. This
is by no means the case. In Illinois there are
thousands of acres with not a tree upon it,
but covered with a sort of strong wild grass,
growing sometimes three or four feet high.
These lands are termed prairies, and require
only to be broken up with a prairie plough,
and they become at once fine arable land.
As I before intimated, this kind of land,
though the soonest cultivated, is not the
most productive being, as the farmers term
it, of a stronger quality than the other. The
soil of both prairies and woodland is quite
black, probably owing to the vegetable matter, which for ages has decayed thereon. At
the season of the year now under notice,
these prairies present to the eye a most
charming appearance. Let the reader imagine himself by the side of a rich meadow,
or fine grass plain several miles in diameter,
decked with myriads of flowers of a most
gorgeous and varied description, and he will
have before his mind a pretty correct representation of one of these prairies. Nothing can surpass in richness of colour, or
beauty of formation many of the flowers
which are found in the most liberal profusion on these extensive and untrodden wilds.
The naturalist would here meet with abundance of materials for his genius to arrange,
while the poet, reminded of his elegies, would
perceive how—
"Many a flower is born to blush unseen,
And waste its sweetness on the desert air."
In contrasting the hues of flowers grown in
America with those in England, I must acknowledge that the former country presents
the more splendid; but if they are superior in
colour, they are much inferior in odour. Perhaps the superabundance of light and heat,
which produces such fine colour, is prejudicial to the production of odoriferous plants,
as any thing at all approaching the fragrance
of the honey suckle or sweet briar, I never
witnessed in America. In the woody districts, the trees most commonly met with
are the oak, chichory, walnut and sugar maple,
besides a great deal of underwood and wild
fruit trees of the plum family. As all these
grow in a wild state, it is not to be supposed
that the trees are as numerous as they are in
the plantations of this country. The strong
timber trees grow at various distances from
each other, sometimes being as near to each
other as they can possibly grow, at others
twenty or thirty yards apart. They not only
vary considerably in this respect, but also in
magnitude and age. Not a few are to be
found in the last stage of decay, their patriarchal dignity gradually submitting to the
all-subduing influence of time. Numbers
more are quite hollow, in which bees, owls,
and rabbits severally find shelter and propagate their species. Every thing here bears
the mark of ancient undisturbed repose.
The golden age still appears, and when the
woodman with his axe enters these territories
for the first time, he cannot resist the impression that he is about to commit a trespass on
the virgin loveliness of nature, that he is going to bring into captivity what has been
free for centuries.
In resuming the thread of my narrative, I
have to state, that as soon as we had sown
our Indian corn, and planted a few potatoes,
we began to prepare for taking in more land,
although we had four or five acres unsown of
that which Mr. Oakes had broken up. We
hoped, nevertheless, that before another season we should be able to plough and sow in a
regular manner. Accordingly my husband
worked hard every day with his grubbing
hoe and axe, tearing up the roots of underwood and cutting down some of the largest
trees. When trees are cut down in America,
as little regard is paid to the timber, they do
not cut them off level with the ground as in
England, but about three feet from it. The
remaining part is burnt after it has been exposed to the sun's rays a few months. Many
trees however are allowed to remain standing, after the bark has been cut, to cause
them to die. In this state they remain even
after the land is sown, for, being destitute of
foliage, they do no harm to the crop.
While my husband was thus engaged I
frequently went to him, and, assisted by our
little boy, gathered the most portable pieces
of brushwood, and took them to our cabin to
be ready for fuel; thus, by continued exertions, we had cleared three or four acres by
the end of May, and made a fence half round
the piece we intended to enclose as our next
field, consisting of about eight acres. Before
this time our old mare had foaled, and as we
hardly expected, only survived that event a
few weeks. Near our house there is a sort of
rivulet, termed in Illinois a branch, in which
one Sunday evening, after we had walked
ten miles in going to and from the chapel, we
found her laid; we got her out with the help
of a rope, and after a while she appeared
little worse; a week or two afterwards, however, her foal came by itself neighing to our
door; we were immediately assured that
something had befallen its mother, and set
out in search of her, whither the foal, going
before, led us as naturally as if it had been
endowed with reason; she had again fallen
into the branch, and was quite dead. The
foal, notwithstanding its loss, throve very
well, and subsequently became a very valuable brood mare.
In the month of June, notwithstanding
our economy, we were obliged to purchase
some meal on credit. Mr. Varley, the storekeeper, very willingly allowed us to have as
much as we wanted, and indeed offered to
sell us anything else on the same terms. His
miller, however, as soon as he knew we were
not giving ready money, only partly filled
the bushel, thereby making it dearer to us
than before, and we dared not complain to
his master for fear he should refuse it altogether. The debt we contracted was very
small,—not a dollar—for which we had
bread for the family not less than six weeks;
the expiration of which brings us to the end
of our first wheat harvest, a season conspicuous in my history on account of the severe
trials I then experienced.
Chapter 5
Towards the end of June our three
acres of wheat began to look ripe, and
we consequently had to consider how
we should reap it; we had no sickles, nor were
any to be had under a dollar each; we therefore, self and husband, resolved to go to our
friend Mr. B., who lent us two, for which we
were thankful enough, although they were
poor ones. As we were returning home, my
husband had the misfortune to stumble over
a log of wood, and having a sickle in his
hand, he pitched upon the edge of it with his
knee, and cut it severely. We were then a
mile from home, and the wound bled profusely. I bound it up with a handkerchief,
and after a little faintness he was able to proceed. The next day, on examining the cut,
we found it to be more serious than we had
imagined: the symptoms were also bad; instead of being warm and irritable, it was cold
and numb. In vain did we apply lotions, it
kept growing worse and worse. The following day it began to swell very much, and to
be exceedingly painful at a distance from the
cut. The pain took away his appetite for
food, and symptoms of inflammation and
fever became rapidly apparent. My situation requires no comment: I could not but
perceive I was likely to lose my dearest
earthly friend, and with him all visible
means of supporting myself, or maintaining
my family. I was almost driven to frenzy.
Despair began to lay hold of me with his iron
sinews; I longed to exchange situations with
my husband; there was no one near to assist
or encourage me. My eldest child alone
manifested any signs of sympathy: the poor
boy went up to his father's bed, and with
affectionate and child-like simplicity said,
'don't die, father, don't die'. Meanwhile the
swelling increased; my husband had taken
nothing but a little coffee for two days.
Here was a crisis: I saw a short time would
determine whether I was to be reduced to a
situation the most wretched imaginable, or
see my husband restored to me again. The
latter idea seemed to contain all I had in this
world to cling to. I could not give it up. I
fomented the swelling with increased diligence, till at length he began to perspire, and
his leg to possess its wonted sensibility. A
change for the better had evidently taken
place, and by degrees all the bad symptoms
disappeared.
On perceiving this, I felt myself the happiest woman on earth, although my situation
the one just described, are now by no means
rare during warm weather in Illinois: snakes
are the creatures now referred to, of which
there are not only a great variety, but vast
numbers of each species, many of which are
exceedingly venomous. One kind called the
black snake, alias the racer, is noticed for
pursuing people who may chance to come
near them during the breeding season; it is
large and completely black, its bite is not
venomous, nor does it attempt to pursue intruders, unless they shrink from its intimidating appearance, and even then it generally
returns to its post as soon as it fancies it has
driven them off; sometimes however, it will
wrap round a person's legs, and if the individual in that situation attempts to fly, he
is almost sure to fall; he may however, soon
release himself with a small stick or a knife;
as it is the only snake in America that will
approach man without being previously irritated, it is fortunate that its bite is not venomous: one kind about the size of a small eel
is able to raise itself nearly in a perpendicular direction; when struck it immediately
appears to be broken or disjointed into three
or four pieces not unlike the herb or weed
termed foxtail, when its joints are disunited;
a third called the copperhead has a most
angry appearance, and its bite is venomous,
but it usually endeavours to get away on the
approach of man. The species are too numerous for me to attempt to enumerate them
here; it seldom happens that any one is injured by them, but as they are known to lurk
in concealed situations, hollow trees, and
some even among the branches, they cause
people to be constantly on their guard when
they have to enter situations favorable for
them to lie in.
The rattlesnake, however, is not to be despised, for although it is not so numerous as
some of the other kinds, it is more dreaded
than them all; this formidable foe never attacks man except in self-defence, and then
its bite, if no antidote be taken, is speedily
fatal. The usual medicine given to a person
thus bitten, is a strong infusion of a herb
called the rattlesnake's master. The rattle
from which the reptile has its name, is situated at the end of its tail, and composed of
thin hollow bones articulated so as to make
a rattling noise when the animal moves,
thereby warning other animals of its approach; the number of bones contained in
the rattle varies according to its age, one
being added every year, from which it appears to live about twelve years, as snakes
are sometimes killed with that number of
bones in the rattle; when about to strike an
animal it coils itself up like the contraction,
(&) to enable it to dart forward its head with
greater rapidity, and without any part of its
body touching the ground, except the tail, on
which it supports itself during the time.
This reptile is becoming less and less numerous, as none are allowed to escape when once
observed. They are usually found in pairs,
and often among the growing corn. A neighbour of ours was once bitten with one on
which he had accidentally trodden. He
killed it immediately afterwards, and then
hastened to the nearest house, but before he
could reach it he was obliged to hollow to
make the occupiers know what was his misfortune, as he felt his tongue and limbs beginning to grow stiff; the antidote was immediately administered, but not before he had
become insensible; he however, recovered.
When an individual attacks these reptiles he
should be cautious how he approaches them
when in their favourite coiled position.
When they are extended at length on the
ground, they may be approached with safety,
as they are then not able to dart forward
their heads as they do when they attempt to
inflict a wound.
Insects are likewise numerous in America,
and many of them of a larger size than any
to be met with in England. There is a species
animal classed among the plantigrada, which
will hardly account for the above circumstance.
The continuation of my narrative presents
my partner recovered from his lameness, and
busy thrashing our wheat in the open air: we
had a small barn, but as the ground is almost
as hard as a boarded floor at the season I am
now speaking of, the corn is often thrashed
in the open air. Many farmers thrash as
soon as harvest is over, and, without winnowing it, place it on a large heap, and cover
it with a thick coat of straw and another of
earth, as farmers preserve potatoes in England. In this state it will keep very well for
several months if required. As the cattle lie
out all the year round, the straw is of no use,
they therefore burn it out of their way. The
time had not yet arrived for us to practise
this system of preserving corn; we wanted
the full worth of our wheat, and that as soon
as we could get. As we had no winnowing
machine we were obliged to winnow with the
wind, which, though a troublesome method,
is frequently practised in Illinois, for the
same reason as that which induced us to
practise it on this occasion. The farmers in
that country are much troubled with a weed
that grows amongst the wheat, and of which
it is next to an impossibility to clear it. This
was the first time we had anything to do
with it. Its appearance when growing can
scarcely be distinguished from wheat till it
begins to ear; on this account it is called
'cheat/ and not undeservedly, as it sometimes stands on the ground as abundant as
the crop itself, and yet it is so valueless, that
even the poultry will not eat it. I have not
seen anything in England that resembles it
more nearly than the weeds termed by Yorkshire farmers droke and darnel. It is more
like the former than the latter.
Having thrashed and winnowed our wheat
in the manner above described, our next consideration was how we were to sell it. The
produce of the three acres might be about
eighty bushels, one-fourth of which was but
imperfectly cleared of cheat, and was therefore unsaleable. We had only five sacks,
which we had taken with us from England,
but these even we did not require, as we
subsequently learnt the store-keepers were
accustomed to furnish the settlers with bags
for their corn. My husband took a specimen
of wheat, which as it had been sown too sparingly on the ground was a fine sample. Mr.
Varley offered half a dollar per bushel in
money, or a few cents more in barter. We
borrowed a waggon and a yoke of oxen of one
of our neighbours, and carried to the store
fifty bushels. The first thing we did was to
settle our meal account; we next bought two
pairs of shoes for self and husband, which by
this time we wanted as we did other articles
of apparel, which we knew we could conveniently procure. The truth is, we had intended to have a little more clothing, but
finding the prices so extravagant, we felt
compelled to abandon that intention. For a
yard of common printed calico, they asked
half a dollar, or a bushel of wheat, and proportionate prices for other goods. We gave
ten bushels of wheat for the shoes. I may
just remark that the prices are considerably
lower at the present time for all kinds of
wearables than they were then. Our next
purchase was a plough, bought in hopes that
we should, at some time, have cattle to draw
it, as we were tired of the hoeing system.
We also bought two tin milk bowls; these
and the plough cost about twenty bushels.
We obtained further a few pounds of coffee,
and a little meal; the coffee cost us at the
rate of a dollar for four pounds; and thus we
laid out the greater part of our first crop of
wheat. We had only reserved about twenty
bushels for seed, besides a quantity imperfecly cleared of cheat, which was unfit either
for sale or making bread. On balancing our
account with Mr. Varley, we found we had
to take about five dollars, which we received
in paper money, specie being exceedingly
scarce in Illinois.
The interval between this time and the
latter part of September, was spent in further clearing the field which we had before
fenced somewhat more than half round. Our
Indian corn was likely to be a failing crop,
partly because it had been sown late, and
partly for want of a plough it had been but
imperfectly cultivated. The autumnal rains
had now begun to fall, and while other people's corn was ripe, a great part of ours was
quite green, and not likely to ripen before the
frosts. The little that was ready, we cut, and
made it into small stacks, to be ready for
seed the ensuing spring. October arrived;
it was the season for sowing wheat, and we
were little better prepared than we had been
the preceding spring; for although we had a
plough we had no team. We could readily
have hired one had we possessed the means.
Five or six dollars were all the money we
had, and we fully purposed to buy a pig or
two with them, as we had been some weeks
without any animal food, except a few fowls
for which we had bartered one of our china
tea-cups. Our inability to raise a team and
sow our wheat, was a source of very great
anxiety. The hoeing system had answered
so indifferently that we felt determined, if
possible to have it ploughed. We knew a
Mr. Knowles who ploughed for hire; his
house was about two miles from ours. My
husband waited upon him and offered him
one-fifth of the produce of eight acres for
ploughing and harrowing it. Reward, it is
said, sweetens labour: of this Mr. Knowles
was conscious; but the idea of waiting for the
reward till the ensuing harvest did not suit
his genius: in short, he declined undertaking
the work on any such terms. My husband
was coming away almost in despair; but happening to look at his watch, Mr. Knowles
accosted him in a tone of surprise that he
should want any one to work on credit while
he possessed such a watch as that, telling
him at the same time, that he would plough
and harrow the whole eight acres for it. I
need scarcely say they immediately agreed,
as the watch had been bought in England a
year or two before for something less than a
sovereign. We were thus relieved from our
distressing anxiety, and got the wheat sown
as conveniently as we could possibly wish.
This acquaintance with Mr. Knowles led
to a further bargain between him and my
husband for three young pigs just taken in
from the range; for which we paid him the
small sum of three dollars. They were
scarcely fat enough to kill; we therefore gave
them a little unsaleable wheat which fed
them very rapidly, so that in about a month's
time they became nice pork, weighing between nine and ten stones each. By this
time our little stock of cattle required to be
fed daily with Indian corn, part of which
was uncut, and what is worse some of it was
unripe. That which had ripened was excellent fodder, the greater part of which we had
cut: the little that remained in the field, being ripe, suffered no harm; whereas, the last
sown, not ripening before the frosts came on,
was much injured, the cattle would scarcely
touch it. There is nothing peculiar in this:
water, it is well known, expands when it is
frozen. Hence, all sorts of succulent plants
or soft grain, having their vessels filled with
a watery or juicy substance, must of necessity, when frozen, experience a disarrangement of their parts, and have their vascular
structure destroyed, and consequently be
liable to putrefaction and mould.
In the various transactions I have had to
enumerate, I have overlooked our potato
crop which was abundant; for although we
had only planted half a rood, we had more
than sufficient for our own use. The reader
must be aware that no manure is used for
anything that is grown: the land is as fat as
already endured were not forgotten. The
tattered appearance of our children's clothes,
compared with what they had worn in England, made an impression on our minds,
which even padent endurance could not resist. We were again on the eve of a hard winter with less warm clothing to meet it, than
we had the preceding winter by the wear of
a twelvemonth. This was one of the gloomy
days in our history. The previous winter we
had been prevented from attending religious
worship on account of distance, we were now
prevented from another cause,—want of decent clothing. It was on this occasion that
we perceived something more than poetry in
the lines of Cowper:
"When I think of my own native land,
In a moment I seem to be there;
But alas! recollection at hand
Soon hurries me back to despair."
There was however one cheering consideration: in all respects except clothing, we were
better situated than we had been the foregoing season. We had four acres more of wheat
sown this year than the year before; we were
now in possession of a plough; our cattle had
likewise increased in value; the cow had
calved again, and the former calf had grown
a fine-looking heifer, we therefore saw, after
all, we were gaining ground.
In accordance with my pretensions, I
ought here to state that both I and husband
had the ague very bad this month; happily
not both at the same time. This complaint
is too well known to require any description
of it from me. It generally attacks new settlers at the end of their first summer, and,
even afterwards. At the fall of the leaf it is
by no means an uncommon complaint. As
land becomes better cultivated and drained,
this disease is less frequent. At the present
time, notwithstanding its prevalence in
autumn, it rarely proves fatal, except in
instances where the constitution has manifested previous symptoms of decline, and
like a withered leaf is ready to be blown
down by the first fresh breeze that blows.
The inhabitants have various specifics, real
and imaginary: a weak infusion of common
pot-herbs drunk hot appears to be as efficacious as anything. When the patient ceases to
shake, the ague is said to be broken, and unless fever ensue, as it sometimes happens, he
is in a short time quite well.
After we had recovered, for a while nothing
occurred worthy of note. As, in the winter
previous, our chief employment consisted
in attending to the cattle, preparing firewood, and splitting rails. As before, our cattle remained out day and night, generally
resorting, during the latter, to some sheltered situation. About Christmas, a person
with whom we had several interviews,
named Mr. Vanderoozen, (15) came to our house
and wished us to buy two young steers and
a milch cow. We replied we could not purchase them for want of money. "That reason," said he, "shall not prevent you: I am
going to keep a shop at St. Louis, and shall
often have to come up into the country, you
may pay for them when it is convenient,
meanwhile I shall expect interest for my
money." At the time I am now speaking of,
the usual interest paid for the loan of money
was twenty-five per cent per annum. It has
since very properly declined to twelve per
cent. Having considered Mr. Vanderoozen's
proposal, we felt inclined to accept it; the
only impediment was in the failure of our
Indian corn crop. By using the remainder of
our unsaleable wheat, however, we presumed
we should be able to winter them, and felt
assured that when spring arrived they would
be able to do well, and greatly add to our
advantages. The bargain was accordingly
struck: my husband gave him a promissory note for thirty dollars, with interest
for the same at the same rate. We thus appeared to have increased our possessions,
and endeavoured to brave our privations
and the severity of the weather as well as
we could. We were obliged, nevertheless, to
economize our winter fodder, which was seen
in the condition of our cattle; by degrees
they began to lose their flesh, a circumstance
which made us doubly anxious for the return
of spring.
After much anxiety and unceasing diligence to preserve the health of our stock, the
first of March arrived. In a fortnight more
we expected there would be plenty of fresh
grass in the wilds, and we consequently
looked forward to the time with pleasure,
little anticipating how sudden a check to our
satisfaction we were about to receive. On
the third of March, who should darken our
door but Mr. Vanderoozen, who had, as he
expressed himself, called upon us for the
money we owed him; that is to say, the
thirty dollars we had agreed to give him for
the steers and cow. Thunderstruck at a request so unexpected and unreasonable, we
expostulated with him on the terms of the
agreement, and explained our inability to
answer his demands. Unfortunately the note
absence my mind had been in a state of vacillation between hope and fear; but the moment I saw his countenance hope entirely
fled. What kind of a night we experienced,
those alone can conceive who have struggled
earnestly and perseveringly with adversity
without success. In vain did we extend our
languid limbs on our homely couch. Spirits
so disordered as ours, were beyond the powers of sleep to lull into forgetfulness. The
entire labours of a twelve month were
doomed to disappear. On other occasions
when my spirits had been depressed, I had
laid my cause before the Supreme Ruler, and
found relief; but at this time I felt no disposition to look upward. We seemed despised
and forsaken by all. In this state of mind
we continued until morning, when a knock
was heard at the door, to which my husband
attended. Will the reader here believe my
story? Shall I not rather be charged with
fabrication? I can, however, tax no one with
incredulity, inasmuch as I doubted my husband's assertion myself, when, returning
from the door, he told me that Mr. B. had
brought us the money, and gone away saying he could not rest any longer without
lending it.
This account I am aware has too much of
the air of fiction, appears too nearly allied to
the marvellous to obtain general credit. It
might have been suppressed, but as I am
prompted to regard it as an instance of the
over-ruling power of that being "who
maketh the wrath of man to praise him,"
I deem it to be my duty to record it as it occurred, and where it is now placed. The
story is now easy to conclude: the following
day, to the surprise of our creditor, we paid
the money, and thereby put an end to the
proceedings. We had no sooner settled this
affair than we turned out our cattle into the
woods, having previously marked them on
the right ear. The sugar trees were now
ready for tapping, and as we were anxious
to pay Mr. B. as soon as we could, we resolved to make the best of them, especially
as sugar is an article for which money can be
easily obtained. We made incisions into a
great many trees, and shortly had our large
kettles boiling down the liquor; the greatest
difficulty we experienced arose from an insufficiency of troughs to place at the bottom
of the trees. We were obliged to cork up the
holes of the greater part to prevent the
liquor from wasting, while the rest alternately were running into the troughs. Notwithstanding this hindrance, we made at
least three hundred and fifty pounds of
sugar, which enabled us to return our friend
fifteen dollars, half the sum we had borrowed. For the loan of the remainder my
husband agreed to work for him five days in
the year, till we could return it. The sugar
this year did exceedingly well; for besides
raising the above sum, we exchanged about
forty pounds of it for a sow and a litter of
pigs, which we kept near home till they knew
the premises, and afterwards allowed them
to run at large till autumn.
Thus, the reader will perceive our circumstances kept improving, as we had now two
milch cows, two steers almost ready for the
yoke, one young heifer, a calf, a fine young
mare, and the family of pigs just named.
In agricultural pursuits every season presents its peculiar task to the husbandman,
and situated as we were that task was not a
small one; the season for sowing Indian corn
had again arrived, and again we were unprepared with a team. In the whole round of
our agricultural labours nothing so much
perplexed us as the sowing of our corn; we
had only four acres this spring as we had
sown eight with wheat, and all our other
land was unbroken up; having no fixed plan
in view and not knowing what means to
adopt to get in the seed, we were agreeably
surprised one morning to behold a person in
the field busy ploughing; this was Mr. Burns,
the person named on a previous occasion,
with whom we had formed an intimacy, or
rather a friendship, which up to the time
I am writing has only increased in degree
and in value; in any country such a person as he would be valuable as a friend,
but in the thinly inhabited regions of the
"far west," his worth cannot be fully set
forth; his kindness towards us at this time
is, however, a specimen; he and his wife had
been at our house the previous week, and
perceiving our coming difficulty, gave us the
above seasonable boon; we thus saw the
whole of the twelve acres systematically
sown: the wheat was a fine thriving crop, we
therefore began to feel ourselves more composed, and to use a good old English phrase
"more at home."
Hitherto we had no garden, my husband
therefore dug up about a rood of fine dry
land, and fenced it round with brush-work
after the Yorkshire style of dead fencing; the
greater part of it we planted with potatoes,
and the rest with other kinds of vegetables,
obtaining the seeds and plants from older settlers; before our wheat crop was ripe we had
finished the fence round the new field, and
rooted up the greater part of the underwood
growing thereon; most of the stronger timbers we allowed to stand, having previously
proceedings, adverse and successful, does not
allure his fancy with ideas of visionary prosperity as the invariable result of crossing the
seas, it may perchance tend to make him a
little better satisfied with his present condition, though it should only be a snug little
cottage in the land where his childhood was
reared. If it does this, it will be something—
my purpose will be served— and thus, reader,
I wish thee farewell.
Note. — The writer (16) feels it due to state
that the subject of this narrative, as implied
above, returned, after a stay in England of
about three months, taking with her the
daughter,(17) mentioned at the first outset as
being left, the husband of the same, and their
two children, besides a family or two of connections. Since their departure three or four
other families from their own immediate
neighbourhood have followed.
|
(1) Charles Bickerdike, the first of his name to settle in Pike County, came to America (and Illinois) and settled in Flint Township, Pike County, about 1828. It was the reading of" his letters to his brother in England which determined the migration of the Burlends. The Bickerdike family is still represented in Pike County, and the graves of earlier members of the line may be seen in Bethel Cemetery where Rebecca Burlend and her husband lie buried. Charles Bickerdike is also buried in Bethel Cemetery, according to family information, although no monument identifies his grave.
(2)The author and her husband had fourteen children in all. Four had died in England before the migration to America, and two more (Edward, the "eldest son" and Mary, the "eldest daughter" of the present sentence) remained behind. The five children who shared in the family migration were John, then nine years old, Hannah, eight years old, Sarah, three years old, Charlotte, and William, an infant. John served in the Mexican War and was slain in a soldiers' brawl while returning to his Illinois home. Hannah married Thomas Dalby and lived to her ninetieth year, dying at Griggsville in 1913. Sarah married Francis Allen, and Charlotte married Daniel Burns. William, the infant of 1831, died at Griggsville in 1900. Information taken from article by Jess M. Thompson in Pike County Republican (Pittsfield), July 11, 1936.
(3) The venturesome character of John Burlend, the child here alluded to, is still a matter of family tradition. Information supplied by Jess M. Thompson
(4) The author's recital serves vividly to remind the present-day reader of the fact that barely one hundred years ago the perils of piracy were braved by all who went down to the sea in ships. At least one famous pirate of the gulf region valiantly aided General Andrew Jackson in the defense of New Orleans against British attack in 1814, and for a decade thereafter piracy continued to flourish in the waters adjoining our eastern and southern seaboard.
(5) The flat-boat commerce by which the surplus produce of the upper Mississippi Valley was brought to New Orleans flourished for a generation or more, until the era of railroad construction which immediately preceded the Civil War. An Illinois youth of recent adoption who made the long journey to New Orleans the year preceding Mrs. Burlend's arrival in America bore the name of Abraham Lincoln. The journey he made was typical of thousands of similar ones performed in the period here alluded to.
(6) The river here alluded to is obviously the Missouri, rather than the Ohio.
(7) Although St. Louis dates from 1764, the increase in population was extremely slow for several decades. Upon incorporation as a city in 1823, there were only a few hundred inhabitants. By 1830, the year prior to
(8) Philips Ferry is still conducted, on or near the original site, at Valley City, where the present Editor utilized it late in the month of August, 1936. The ferry was established by Garret Van Dusen in 1822, who two years later transferred it to Nimrod Philips. The latter had come from Kentucky to Pike County about 1821; he died here a decade later. By his will, made in 1826, he bequeathed the ferry to his son, Andrew. This document, still on file in the Court House at Pittsfield, we copy in full for the entertainment of the reader:
"Illinois pike County in the name of God Amen I Nimrod Philips of the State and County aforesaid intend to travel and Not knowing but I may die before I return do make this my last will and testament first I give to Zerrelda Jean my youngest child five head of Cattle a cow cald Cherry and her Caves a horse Cald Jack three beds and furniture and all the kitchen furniture and utensils this I give to my youngest child by Nancy Philip. Nancy Norris Zerrelda Jean Philips is her name I give to Nancy Philips my wife one loom and its furniture 3 breeding Sows and their pigs six barrows for her meat She is to have her choice of the above named Hoggs She is to live where I now live at the ferry My part of the crop of corn that has been on the place this year to be hers She is to live on the place until Zerrelda is of age and have the benefit of the improved land Zerrelda is to have six dolers for 3 years Scholling 18 dollers. I give to Elizabeth Elledge my oldest daughter one doller the rest of my estate and property is to be equaly divided between my 3 children Andrew Philips, Selah Philips, Asa Philips except Andrew is to have the ferry this is my last will and testament"
(9) The will of Nimrod Philips seems to indicate that the Mrs. Philips whom Mrs. Burlend knew was a second wife of Nimrod, whose maiden name was Nancy Norris. Of her we have learned nothing apart from the vivacious picture by our author. An earlier wife of Philips who was a member of the Elledge family intermarried with the Boones, and on coming to Illinois settled in Scott County on the east side of the Illinois River from Pike.
(10) There were, commonly, three waves of migration in the settlement of any given portion of the frontier. First of all came the traders, hunters, and trappers, with no particular intention of improving the country. Second came the "squatters," who occupied (without troubling to buy legal title) a tract of land and made some slight improvements on it, frequently building a cabin and reducing one or more acres to cultivation, but relying largely upon hunting and on the natural products of the forest for their support. In the wake of the squatter came the permanent settler, who acquired legal tide to the soil and developed a home with the intention of" passing it on to his children. Oakes, the individual here noted, was evidently a squatter, who has left no record of his sojourn in the community. Of him and his kind, Mr. Jess M. Thompson, local historian, observes, "All seem to have vanished from the community at an early day."
(11) Apparently the co-author of Mrs. Burlend's narrative nodded here. The tree in question is the sumac.
(12) The farm which the immigrants thus obtained for their home is legally known as the northeast 1/4 of the northeast X of Section 6, Twp. 5 S, R. 2 W. of the Fourth P. M. It lies about two miles east of Bethel Cemetery, and about three miles north of the village of Detroit, in northwestern Detroit Township. Three miles to the northeast lies Valley City, formerly Philips Ferry. The approach of the Burlends to the farm site was, of course, by way of Philips Ferry. The original cabin site was on the face of a sloping hillside, a few rods from a spring which still gives forth a stream of clear, cool water.
(13) It seems probable that Edward Burlend, who never saw America, misunderstood what his mother actually told him concerning the corn crop. A yield of four or five ears of corn to a single stalk is so uncommon that the Editor, who grew up on an Iowa farm cannot remember ever having seen a single example. The Illinois River bottom land is very rich and still produces splendid crops of corn, but the statement that a yield of four or five ears to the stalk was common, even a century ago,' is evidently erroneous.
(14) The "Illinois Mange,'a well-known pioneer affliction, as the name itself indicates, seems not to trouble present-day denizens of Pike County. Mr. Francis Allen, a grandson of our author and now eighty years of age, who has lived his entire life in the county, informed the Editor that he had never heard of the disease. Jess M. Thompson, however, local historian (and a great-grandson of Mrs. Burlend) is familiar with its early-day prevalence in the county. He relates that local opinion attributed its occurrence to the rotting of plowed-under vegetation. Another theory attributed its ravages to the decayed fish which perished with the drying-up of ponds along the river bottoms. At Atlas, Pike County, the disease assumed the proportions of an epidemic in 1821, when many of the settlers died from it.
)15) Garret Van Dusen, a resident of Pike County from 1821 to about 1850. He was a Kentuckian and an early commissioner of Pike County, a farmer, and a stock trader. Nothing further is known concerning him, or his family. Information supplied by Jess M. Thompson.
(16) Edward Burlend whose role in writing the narrative is recited in our Historical Introduction.
(17)Mary Burlend, the daughter alluded to on previous pages, as remaining behind in England when the family migrated to America in 1831. On Feb. 10,1840, she married, in her native Yorkshire, Luke Yelliott. In 1846 the Yelliott followed the Burlends to Pike County, Illinois, where they established their permanent home, in which John and Rebecca Burlend were sheltered during their declining years. See History of Pike County, Illinois (Chicago, 1880), 444.
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