CHAPTER III.
THE DE MONTS COLONY.
But any delay in maintaining England's claim to territory on the Atlantic coast of the North American continent was not without peril to English interests. Already France had seized large possessions on the St. Lawrence, also in regions far within the interior of the continent, south of the Great Lakes; and having purposes whose meaning was obvious, that nation could not be expected to leave out of view the unoccupied territory on the Atlantic seaboard. In fact, with information concerning the voyages of Gosnold and Pring, France was not losing any time in asserting such purposes; and the King, as early as November 8, 1603, gave to Sieur de Monts,1 an officer of the royal household, a Charter that conveyed to him trading and seigniorial rights in American territory between the 40th and 56th parallels of latitude, that is, from about St. John's, Newfoundland, to Philadelphia.2
De Monts was not without experience in the affairs of France, on this side of the sea, having accompanied Chauvin to the St. Lawrence settlements not long before. What he then learned concerning the climate in that region, as compared with that of his
Footnotes.
1 Champlain (Champlain's Voyages, Prince Society, 1878, II, 4, 5) says de Monts "desired to attempt what had been given up in despair, and requested a commission for this purpose of his Majesty, being satisfied that the previous (French) enterprises had failed because the undertakers of them had not received assistance, who had not succeeded, in one nor even two years' time, in making the acquaintance of the regions and people there, nor in finding harbors adapted for a settlement".
2. This charter, or a contempory copy, is in the Bureau des Marines et Colonies in Paris, and extracts in an English translation, are printed in the Farnham Papers, I, 1-6. The Charter conferred upon de Monts a monopoly of the fur trade.
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THE BEGINNINGS OF COLONIAL MAINE.
native land, doubtless now impressed him with the importance of seeking a location for his colony, farther southward.
No distinctive religious purpose in the movement was indicated in the persons brought together who comprised de Monts' party. Happily, at that time in France, catholics and Protestants were at peace,1 and both were represented in the expedition. De Monts was a Protestant, while Samuel de Champlain2 the geographer of
footnot
1. The struggle in France, for religious liberty, had continued for many years with varying fortunes, but a length had been brought to a happy issue. In 1598, only six years before de Monts conducted his colony to the American coast, King Henry IV, King of France, recognizing the "frightful troubles, confusion and disorders" to which, on his accession to the throne, he found his Kingdom a prey, promulgated the famous Edict of Nantes, which gave liberty of conscience to all the inhabitants of that land, granting to them, the right to dwell anywhere in the royal dominions and to meet for religious purposes without being subjected to inquiry, vexed, molested or constrained to do anything contrary to the dictates of conscience. What this meant to many of the King's subjects, long harrassed, it is difficult now even to conceive. To thousands, this edict was a call to a new and better life. Somewhat tardily, Parliament in the following year, 1599, formally entered this important document upon its registers, and so confirmed to warring, factional France, Catholic and Protestant alike, the boon of religious liberty.
It was not for long, however. For twelve years, or until the close of the reign of Henry IV, the Edict of Nantes was in full operation. Then followed unceasing assaults upon the rights which it guaranteed; and at length, in 1685, came its revocation – the culmination of a series of events that are written large upon the pages of the History of France.
2. Champlain was a native of Brouage, a small village in the Province of Saintonge, France, and was born about the year 1567. From his early years he gave attention to practical seamanship, had an army experience of several years after 1592, and in 1599, was in command of a French ship of 500 tons in the West Indies. On his return, he prepared a report of his discoveries and observations, which remained in manuscript until printed in an English translation by the Hakluyt Society in 1859. In the preceding year Champlain accompanied Pont Grave' in his expedition to the St. Lawrence, and it was his report concerning the inhabitants and products of the country that directed the attention of the King to the opportunities that the new world afforded for French colonization and led to the de Monts expedition and Champlain's connection with it. Thenceforward Champlain's life was devoted to French interests in America. It was an eventful life. Fittingly it closed at Quebec, where Champlain died in the autumn of 1635.
Pg. 31
DE MONTS COLONY.
the company, and the most distinguished of de Monts' associates, was a catholic. Of religious discussions among some of the colonists, however, there was no lack, as the records of the expedition show; but the purposes that led to the enterprise had no religious ends in view. The ends were pre-eminently national, and those most deeply interested in the colony evidently saw no reason why Protestant and Catholic might not work together harmoniously in the endeavor to establish a French settlement at some point on the Atlantic coast below Cape Breton.
Among the colonists there were skilled artisans, selected doubtless with reference to the requirements of such an undertaking. But their number was not large compared with others who are described as vagabonds and ex-convicts - men upon whom little dependence could be placed in an enterprise calling for steadfastness and heroic endurance amid trying circumstances. Two vessels, one of one hundred and twenty tons - and one of one hundred and fifty tons, were secured for the transportation of the colony, and April 7, 1604, de Monts sailed out of the harbor of Havre de Grace, westward bound, followed by the prayers and good wishes of his countrymen.1
The usual route of French vessels in crossing the Atlantic was followed until the American coast was reached early in May. Then, turning southward, and proceeding down the coast, de Monts entered the Bay of Fundy and commenced the work of exploration with reference to a location for a settlement. Skirting the shores of the bay, including those of adjoining waters now known as Annapolis basin, he failed to discover such a spot
"He was buried in the memorial chapel which he had erected. This Chapel was subsequently destroyed and the place which it occupied was forgotten; so that today, we know not the spot where he was buried. It is perhaps enough to know that his dust is comingled with that of the land he loved, though the name by which he knew it (New France) is no longer on the tongues of living men." The Honorable James P. Baxter, in an address at the 300th anniversary of de Monts settlement on St. Croix Island. See Maine Historical Collection, Series III, 2, 144. 1 Champlain's Voyages, II, 7.
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THE BEGINNINGS OF COLONIAL MAINE.
PASSAMAQUODDY BAY.
as he deemed desirable.1 Sailing still farther southward, he came, near the end of June, into a bay, the present Passamaquoddy Bay.
At its northern part, a broad river opened and ascending its inviting waters, de MOnts and his companions, not far from the mouth of the river, came to an island that offered easy protection for defence against hostile assault. It seemed an attractive spot for the proposed settlement; and such it was - under sunny skies and surrounded with scenes of summer beauty on every hand. Here, accordingly, on June 26, or 27, a choice of a location was made.
De Monts gave to the island the designation St. Croix, the name also now borne by the river in which the island of the settlement is located.2
Plans for the erection of dwellings, storehouses and other buildings were prepared and the colonists entered upon the work of their construction. Leaving this scene of busy activity, September 2nd, Champlain availed himself of an opportunity for added exploration and map-making still farther down the coast. His journal gives us interesting glimpses of the land as he proceeded.
FIRST MENTION OF MOUNT DESERT, MAINE.
PENOBSCOT BAY.
He was the first of the early voyagers to make mention of Mount Desert, that most attractive spot on the Maine coast. Proceeding on his way, Champlain at length entered Penobscot Bay and river and extended his exploration of the river (which he mentions
footnote.
1 Champlain, in his Voyages (Prince Society, II, 22), referring to his Basin, says, "which I have named Port Royal", a name which was soon applied to the settlement made on the north shore of the Basin. A map of the Basin, with Champlain's descript-of it faces p.24 of the Voyages.
2. The name St. Croix, as applied to the river, was suggested by the fact that two streams enter the river a few miles above St. Croix Island, one from the east and one from the west, furnishing in this way the representation of a cross.
3. "From this island (Mt. Desert) to the mainland on the north, the distance is less than a hundred paces. It is very high and notched in places, so that there is the appearance, to one at sea, as of 7 or 8 mountains extending along near each other. The summit of the most of them is destitute of trees, as there are only rocks on them. The woods consist of pines, fir and birch trees only. I named it Isle des Monte Deserts." Champlain's Voyages, II, 39.
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THE DE MONTS COLONY.
Indian Chief, "Bessabez"
The Quinibequy - or, the Kennebec.
under the name "Pentegouet" and also, "Norumbegue" as far as the site of Bangor. While in the river, Champlain had an interview with the "Bessabez," or the chief of the Indians of that region, to whom, in the name of de Monts, he made overtures of friendship. Thence, Champlain made his way to the Kennebec ("Quinibequy"), and attempted the exploration of the river. Unfavorable weather, however, prevented the accomplishment of his purpose in following its reach northward; and descending to the sea, he burned back up the coast on September 23, and he reached St. Croix island on October 2nd. footnote 1.
39 DEATHS FROM SCURVY.
The winter that followed opened early and was one of great severity. The evidence was now borne in upon the colonists that the location had not been wisely chosen. During the winter months, they suffered not only from the cold winds that swept fiercely across the surrounding ice fields, but also from lack of wood and water. Amid these discouraging outward circumstances, scurvy assailed the colonists, and thirty-five of the 79 who comprised the company, died of the dread disease before the season closed.2 Indeed so discouraging was the condition of the colonists before the winter ended, that the abandonment of the undertaking seemed inevitable.
In the early summer of 1605, however, new hopes were awakened by the change of seasons and especially by the opportune arrival of supplies from France. Exploration farther down the coast it was thought, might secure more desirable conditions, and de Monts and Champlain, with some of their associates, accordingly left St. Croix Island on June 18th, for such added exploration. Passing the entire length of what is now the coast of Maine,3 also
Footnotes:
1. Champlain's Voyages, II, 38-48.
2. Champlain says snow began to fall on October 6th, and was from "three to four feet deep up to the end of the month of April." For his account of the sufferings of the colonists that long winter, see Champlain's Voyages, II, pp. 50-53.
3. On reaching the Kennebec the party made an extended exploration of the river, ascending to its head waters, where the Indians "go by this river across the country to Quebec." Proceeding farther along the coast from the mouth of the Kennebec (making mention of Sequin under the name "Tortoise Island"), Champlain and his companions reached "a bay where were a great many islands" (Casco Bay), and from which large mountains were "seen to the west" (the White Mountains). Richmond's Island was named by Champlain, Isle de Bacchus, because of its "beautiful grapes". Champlain's Voyages, II, 55. 1 Champlain's Voyages, 11, 91. Champlain says, "we named the island where they were, La Nef (the ship) for, at a distance, it had the appearance of a ship". The reference was to Monhegan, it is inferred; but if Anasou was rightly understood, he was in error, as he was with reference to the five Indians, who were captutred not at Monhegan, but at St. George's harbor.
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THE BEGINNINGS OF COLONIAL MAINE.
southward to Cape Cod, and as far along the Massachusetts coast as the entrance to Vineyard Sound, they failed to find the favorable location they sought; and on July 25, the turned their boat northward and set out on their return.
ANASOU, CHIEF OF THE KENNEBEC INDIANS.
- Men of an English vessel killed five Indians -
Reaching the mouth of the Kennebec on July 29, they tarried awhile, possibly making further exploration. But neither there, nor at other places in the vicinity, were they successful in finding such a site for a colonial settlement as seemed to offer conditions deemed by them, important. While they were at the river and in communication with Kennebec Indians, Anasou, an Indian chief, told them of a vessel ten leagues to the eastward,1 and that those on board had killed five Indians "of this river", meaning the Kennebec River. From the story, in its details, de Monts and his associates rightly inferred that an English vessel was in the neighborhood. No further mention of that vessel occurs in Champlain's narrative; but the presence of an English ship on the coast, and the incident mentioned by the Indian, Anasou in connection with his report concerning it, must have left upon the minds of de Monts and his little company evidence that England's claim to territory on the coast was receiving added attention. Certainly, there was no further delay at the Kennebec, and the party made its way back to St. Croix Island, which was reached on August 8th.
In all probability, the colonists who had wearily watched for de Monts' return, experienced no disappointment on receiving the report the exploring party brought. The horrors of the preceding winter still hung heavily upon them, and something must be
Pg. 35
DEMONTS COLONY.
done. De Monts' purposes had no suggestion of anything more than a withdrawal to Port Royal.1 The settlement at St Croix island was abandoned, and the proposed change of base was made.
Ill fortune, however, still followed the colonists. Soon after their arrival at Port Royal, de Monts, having established there, his depleted company, set sail for France, still having the interests of the colony in view. The loss of one so prominent in its affairs must have had a depressing effect upon those left behind. The long, cold, dreary and inactive winter months only deepened the gloom of the situation. Indeed to such an extent did the colonists become disheartened amid their lonely surroundings, that home-longings were strengthened day by day; and, when the opportunity, at length offered, the remaining colonists, unwilling to the experience of yet another winter under such hard circumstances, followed de Monts back to France, arriving at St. Malo on October 1, 1607.2
The attempt to plant a French colony on the Atlantic coast of the North American continent had failed. If it had succeeded, France would have secured a favorable outpost for a still farther advance in the effort to have and to hold the vast domain designated by the King in the Charter that de Monts had received. It is difficult to account for de Monts' failure on any other ground than that of weakness in most of the colonists. Aside from Champlain, and a few others, it may be, the colonists at Port Royal were not of the stuff as is required in the founders of states, or in the beginnings of any large enterprise. St. Croix island, it is true, was an unfortunate location for the colony; but Pilgrims and Puritans, not many years later, made permanent settlements in territory not much farther south, and within the limits of de Monts' exploration. The colonists were too easily discouraged.
Footnotes.
1. Champlain's Voyages, II, 94. Sieur de Poutrincourt, who accompanied the expedition "only for his pleasure," asked de Monts for Port Royal soon after their arrival upon the coast; and he gave it to him in accordance with authority received from the King. (Voyages, II, 37.)
2. Champlain's Voyages, I. 77.
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THE BEGINNINGS OF COLONIAL MAINE.
They were lacking in high aims and the cheerful endurance of great hardships. Their presence on the coast, however, proved a spur to English endeavor. The prize at stake was large, and if England would seize it, there was need of haste as well as strength of purpose and heroic determination.1
Footnotes.
1. The tercentenary of de Monts' settlement at St. Croix Island was commemorated on that island by the Maine Historical Society, on June 25, 1904; and the proceedings were published by the Society in an attractive illustrated pamphlet of seventy-eight pages. See also, the Maine Historical Society's Collections, Series III, 2, 74-151.
De Monts' Colony Memorial on St Croix Island was unveiled June 25, 1904.
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