Chautauqua County, New York
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From the Fredonia Censor
Who was the First Settler in Chautauqua County?

Editor of Censor:  A residence of nearly fifty-two years in the town of Hanover; a reader of articles published in the Censor June 4th and 11th of this year, from Dr. Taylor's book, of the early times and history of the town of Portland together with the note of Hon. E. T. Foote, accompanying such articles, in reference to the first settler and settlement of Chautauqua county -- also in attendance at the "Old Settlers' Reunion," held at Fredonia, June 11th, witnessing to me as it did, by an interest almost amounting to enthusiasm, among the venerable men and women of the early days of Chautauqua, who were there and participated in the exercises of the occasion, of the value of a faithful record of the times, sacrifices and pleasures which brought them together to celebrate and commemorate -- I am induced by the urgent solicitatin of friends to present to you for insertion in the Censor, an article pertaining to the early history and first settlement of the town of Hanover, and it is with reluctance that I do so, knowing as I do that the facts so presented will find an opposition most formidable, but at the same time believing that the good people of Chautauqua will receive as authentic the statements of truthful men, corroborated as they are by the testimony of others, I submit them; sincerely believing every detail so related is entitled to confidence, and at this particular period, in view of the forthcoming History of Chautauqua County, now being compiled, as perhaps essential to its correctness.

The individuals from whom I derived the following, have long since passed away, but there are yet left evidences sufficient to establish most conclusively every point or detail mentioned, all of which was carefully noted down from the lips of most of those mentioned, nearly forty years ago:

"It was during the early summer of the year 1797 that Amos Sottle, then about twenty-three years of age, turned his face westward from Chenango county, in this State, and most of the way through an unbroken wilderness, found himself, in the month of August on the rich bottom lands near the mount of Cattaraugus Creek in the present county of Chautauqua, and at that time far beyond the border line between savage and civilized man. Reared in case, if not in luxury, this long and lonesome journey made on foot in midsummer, and accompanied from post to post, or trading points, in most instances by semi-civilized Indians, often awakened in the young pioneer, reflections that were ost [?most] only in the unconsciousness of sleep, after long and wearisome days of devious travel and exposure.  Painted Post on the Chemung, and Big Tree on the Genessee River were points upon his route of travel." Arriving at Buffalo Creek, as Buffalo was then called he made the acquaintance of Ezekiel Lane, who had been there several years, (Lane resided at Fort Niagara previous to coming to Buffalo,) and he afterwards, in 1805, moved to Cattaraugus Flats, and for thirty-six years lived a near neighbor of Sottle's and died at an advanced age, in 1841, and to him the writer of this is indebted for many early incidents, as well as a corroboration of facts as stated by Mr. Sottle.

The same fall, 1797, Sottle selected and settled on that lot of land subsequently laid off and numbered as Lot 61 of the Cattaraugus village, and about one and one-half miles from the mouth of Cattaraugus creek. The following years, 1798 and 1799, he assisted in the surveys then being made by the Holland company, as axman and chainman, and had the lot upon which his improvements had been made booked to him on the spot by Mr. Ellicott's writing his name upon the map or field notes. In after years Mr. Ellicott became the general agent for the Holland Land Company, and received payment of Sottle for the piece of land so selected and noted, a nominal sum only being demanded, for reason as stated by Mr. Ellicott, "that Sottle was the first settler, and one of his boys in the surveys." In the fall of 1799, as the cold weather approached, and the surveys were being closed for the season, Mr. Sottle went west to Sandusky, Ohio, where he inteneded to spend the winter only. Sickness, however, detained him, and in his home and improvements at Cattaraugus, accompanied by Wm. Sidney and Capt. Rosencrantz, the latter an officer of Gen. Anthony Wayne's army, (See Irving's history of Gen. Anthony Wayne,) then approaching in the northwest against the hostile Indians. Rosencrantz was the bearer of despatches from Gen. Wayne to the head chief of the Seneca nation of Indians, then residing at Genesee, Buffalo Creek, Cattaraugus and Allegany Reservations. Mr. Sottle assisted in the execution of Capt. Rosencrantz' mission, and at once repaired to his rude home, and continued to reside upon the same spot, quietly and uninterruptedly until the year 1848 or 1849, when he died. He raised a family of several sons and daughters, and was well and favorably known by the people of this section of Chautauqua, as a man remarkable for his eccentricities, acquirements, and singular dignity. His spare form, with his imaginative mind, and remarkable politeness is still kindly remembered by many and while living he was regarded as
the Pioneer Settler.

During the year 1800, while Sottle was absent at Sandusky, one Skinner, from the Susquehannah country, Pennsylvania, came in with his family and built a small house on the bank of Cattaraugus creek, near the spot in after years well known as the "Mack stand," and such strangers as needed entertainment in this wilderness country, were received and cared for at this house. There we have a clue to the first hotel in Chautauqua county. Skinner's name is mentioned several years after in connection with the title of a lot of land in the neighborhood, but an early settler will easily and readily understand how little the securing of title to land had in those early times to do with actual residence. And it was not until several years after the first settlement that title could be secured, for the reason that the land office had not fully completed its arrangements in opening this section of country to entry by single lots and parcels. Thus the reader will see how feeble is the foundation of the inference that Sottle could not have returned from the north west until 1806, because his name did not go on the books at the land office in regular order or form until that time. After his name had been written upon the field notes, as before stated, he, as well as all who were acquainted with the manner of the Holland Company's way of doing business, knew that the land was as secure to him as though he had his deed in his drawer. He never married or lived "with a squaw," nor did he make his home with "his dusky friends."

On page 511 of Turner's history of the Holland Purchase, he says that James McMahan was the Pioneer Settler of Chautaqua. On page 512 of the same work he says Amos Sottle was the first white resident of Chautauqua. There is to be sure a difference between a settler and a resident, but the difference in this case is altogether too fine spun to take faforably (?favorably) with an unprejudiced public. The latter left his home in the fall of 1799 to arrange a matter of business at Sandusky, was taken sick with a fever and remainded until the Spring of 1801, when he returned and lived on the same premises for more than forty-five years. Thus the reader will perceived he came and actually began his home in the wilderness five years before any other white man except Skinner and Sidney, and returned from the west one year previous to when any other claim or pretension to settlement was made. Another fact connected with the first settlement of the town of Westfield, which looks as though "high sounding military titles," or influential friends had something to do with shaping the opinion of the present generation. It is said by those who put forth Col. James McMahon as the first settler, that in the spring of 1802 he purchased a tract of land in Westfield but did not move his family to his new purchase until the fall of the same year. While John McHenry stood before the people at the "Old Settlers' Reunion," June 11th, 1873, as the first white child born in Chautauqua in the spring of 1802, it was never questioned that Edward McHenry, the father of John McHenry, resided at Westfield or near there at the time John was born, and that he continued to reside there until he was drowned in 1803, while attempting to make a trip to Erie in a small boat after provisions, and that his famly have continued to live there to this day.

The first marriage in the town of Hanover was Hon. Richard Smith, to Sally Mack, daughter of Capt. Mack, of hotel notoriety, at the old Cattauraugus Ferry in 1807.

The first child born was Caroline Sidney, the daughter of Wm. Sidney, in 1804. The first death was that of William Sidney, in January, 1807. It will be remembered that Sidney was one of the men who came back from Sandusky with Sottle in 1801.

H. H. Hawkins
Silver Creek, Aug. 1, '73.

[Source: Jamestown Journal, August 22, 1873 Submitted by Christina]

A Chautauqua Pioneer.

The Censor has the following regarding Nathan Cleland, of Charlotte, who settled in this County in 1811:

In the winter of 1812-13 he carried the mail from Fredonia to Erie on alternate days, part of the time on horse back, except when there was snow on the ground, when he rode in a "jumper" or "pung." At the time he carried the mail, there were but three post-offices between Fredonia and Erie, one at Dunn's, in Portland, one at Westfield and one at North East.

In February he carried Commodore Perry to Erie in his "jumper" when that distinguished officer proceeded to construct his fleet at that place, with which he won the memorable victory on the 10th of September following the Commodore was brought from Buffalo to Fredonia in the same sort of vehicle that Mr. Cleland used by Abner Williams, son of Richard Williams, who resided on the West hill. He carried the mail from Buffalo to this place in connection with Mr. Cleland from this place to Erie. THe mail was tri weekly at that time. Mr. Williams enlisted in the navy under Com. Perry, and was killed on board the Lawrence. Mr. C. described the Commodore as a fine looking man, at that time 27 years of age, rather portly, about 180 pounds weight, light complexion, brown hair, and very gentlemanly in his deportment.

Mr. C. thinks that at that time there were not more than four or five frame houses and some fifty log houses and shanties between this place and Erie. Much of the way it was a wilderness. There was one saw mill at this place, which stood near where Colburne's mill now stands; also one at Westfield. The people mostly took their wheat to Canada for grinding. In 1811 Mr. C. went with a two horse team and sled to Mayville, bought two barrels of flour at $18 per barrel. The flour had been brought by boat from Pittsburg up the Allegany, Conewango and Chautauqua Lake. Their salt was brought from Onondaga by teams, and cost here $20 per barrel.

In 1840, he, with Mr. Stanish Rood, drew two logs, about fifty feet long, for the log cabin erected in this village. They were met on the hill, the logs decorated with flags, and they came into the village with a band of music and amid the shouts for "Tippecanoe and Tyler too."

Mr. C. had two older brothers, who came to this county with their father. He was a Revolutionary soldier, and died in 1827. The three brothers are all living, and propose to take a trip on the Dunkirk, Warren & Pittsburg Railroad the first time the passenger cars run over the road. They all live in the town of Charlotte. They were born in Painfield, Mass. Their names are Samuel, James and Nathan.
[Source: Jamestown Journal, June 10, 1870 Submitted by Christina]

Fire in Chautauqua

On Thursday night last, about 2 o'clock the barn of Mr. Rodman Wilcox, of this town, was discovered to be on fire, and before assistance arrived the flames had gained such headway that it was found impossible to extinguish them. The barn contained a horse belonging to a son of Mr. W., some 10 to 12 tons of hay, a buggy, harness, bob-sleighs and farming utensils, all of which were burned. We have not learned the loss, but Mr. W. held an insurance policy for $800. The origin of the fire is unknown.-[Sentinel.
[Source: Jamestown Journal, November 17, 1876 Submitted by Christina]

Something of the unfortunate.--On Sunday the 29th ult. the wife of Mr. John Underhill, of the town of Gerry, went about a mile from home for the purpose of picking berries. She was obliged to follow a scarecely perceptible path thro' the woods until she reached and old clearing. It was nearly night before she attempted to return, and by some accident she lost her way; it grew dark; her husband and children were waiting in great anxiety for her return--supporsing however that she had got to one of the neighbors, her husband did not think it prudent to leave his children to search for her that night. Early the next morning, Mr. Underhill went to his neighbors, and finding she had not got in, went out to search for her, but not finding her as soon as he expected, came in at noon, when several of the neighbors turned out, but after scouring the woods all the afternoon, returned without her. Tuesday morning the neighbors turned out in greater numbers, and searched the woods in every direction until about the middle of the afternoon, when she was discovered standing in a hollow tree, having subsisted nearly three days on the berries she had picked, adn sleeping nights in a hollow log. She gave no other account of herself than that in endeavoring to return home she got out of the path and was unable to regain it. Mrs. Underhill heard the signal of one man who was searching for her, Monday afternoon, and answered it by a loud scream; but this redoubtable knight, with the courage of a Sancho, imagining it to be a panther, took to his heels and fled with the greatest precipitation, thereby leaving the woman to remain another day and night in the woods.
[Source: The Evening Post, August 24, 1821 Submitted by Christina]

Great Fire in Fredonia - A Block Burned

A fire broke out in Fredonia on Tuesday morning last about 3 o'clock in an unoccupied store on the corner of Main and Water streets. We condense an account from the last Censor. The flames were first discovered bursting from the room up-stairs over the alley on Water street, and the adjacent buildings on both Main and Water streets being all of wood, were of course doomed to certain destruction. Asa Brainard's grocery, Barmore Brothers furniture ware-house, Roberts & Allen's grocery, James H. Lake's harness shop and house and a house belonging to L. B. Green, all these on Main street, were consumed in rapid succession, while Ellis & Beebe's meat market, Alonzo Andrews' harness shop, J. F. Brown's grocery and dwelling and D. Beebee's saloon and dwelling, on Water street, shared the same fate. At half past six o'clock, within two hours of the time that the alarm was sounded, the whole territory covered by the buildings above enumerated, was an expanse of smoking ruins.

The Censor further states that water was plenty and close by but when their single old engine was brought out it would not work. It had just been repaired up by the Trustees, in lieu of buying a new one. This proved expensive econonmy, for the Censor says if it had worked for only a few minutes at the right time two of the houses would have been saved; the loss on these was $3,400, which is chargeable to false economy. Lesson for our folks.

The crown very naturally became rampant at the sight of the useless old engine standing there over a reservoir of water standing near enought to be warmed by the fire, and "went for" it with the intention of running into the fire. Just as it was about to be shoved in the village President and Constable interfered and by persuasion, promises and threats to immolate themselves with it they stopped the riot.

The fire department of Dunkirk was telegraphed for help and two engines came up in 40 minutes from notice, but the fire had then spent its fury.

The losses amount to about $30,000; insurance to $7,300. The buildings were all of wood and the burnt territory will in time probably be covered with brick, thus converting loss into gain for our beautiful sister village.
[Source: Jamestown Journal, May 1, 1868 Submitted by Christina]