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Cimarron County,
Oklahoma
The Santa Fe Trail

Located on highway 325 northwest of Boise City, Oklahoma
The Santa Fe Trail was a major western commercial route that stretched some nine hundred
miles from Franklin, Missouri, to Santa Fe, New Mexico. Established in 1821 when William Becknell took a pack train
from Missouri to Santa Fe, the trail operated until 1880, when the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway built
into New Mexico. The trail consisted of two distinctly different routes and a number of short variations. The Mountain
Route, used by Becknell's 1821 pack train, followed the Arkansas River through Kansas to near present Trinidad,
Colorado, where it crossed the mountains through Raton Pass into New Mexico and then skirted the foothills of the
Rocky Mountains until finally arriving at Santa Fe. The Cimarron Route or Cimarron Cutoff, used by Becknell in
1822 when he took the first wagon train to New Mexico, was destined to carry approximately seventy-five percent
of the traffic along the trail. It followed the Mountain Route until it reached the Great Bend of the Arkansas,
where it turned southwesterly to cross present Cimarron County in the Oklahoma Panhandle and thence through northeastern
New Mexico to rejoin the Mountain Route near Watrous.
The Cimarron Route was shorter and more suited to wagon travel, and it shortened the
traveling time by ten days. However, it was considered much more dangerous than the Mountain Route due to the shortage
of water and the danger of Indian attack. Depending upon where the trail left the Arkansas, it was a journey of
fifty or more miles to reach the next reliable water, at the Cimarron River. This stretch, called the Jornada,
was a much dreaded, waterless area. Upon reaching the Cimarron, the trail followed that river into present Cimarron
County, Oklahoma, where it crossed the river at Willowbar Crossing to continue southwesterly to Cold Springs. There,
Autograph Rock (on private land) still displays the names that scores of travelers carved into the ledges at the
springs. This permanent water source was considered to be a major stopping point on the journey. Here the wagons
were repaired and the livestock was rested before continuing. The Jornada danger was not relieved until 1850, when
Francis X. Aubry opened a better-watered, although slightly longer, alternate route that left the Arkansas further
west near present Syracuse, Kansas. The Aubry Cutoff joined the original trail at Cold Springs and continued on
past Camp Nichols. That short-lived military post, established by Christopher "Kit" Carson in 1865, holds
the distinction of being the only military establishment on the Santa Fe Trail in Oklahoma. The trail finally exited
the state from the southwestern portion of Cimarron County into Union County, New Mexico. Lying in the heart of
the Kiowa and Comanche homeland, the fifty or sixty miles across the Oklahoma Panhandle were considered by many
to be the most dangerous stretch of the trail. During various times of Indian unrest the U.S. Army was forced to
provide escort to travelers crossing this region. In one six-month period during 1865, 5,197 men, 6,452 mules,
38,281 oxen and 4,472 wagons traversed the Trail. In 1866 over 5,000 wagons carried $40 million worth of goods.
Settlers streamed into Kansas Territory exploding the population from 8,600 in 1855 to 143,000 by 1861. The volume
of travel along the trail was tremendous for a frontier region. Varying from a few hundred wagons of traders each
year in the 1820s, the volume swelled to several thousand annually in the late 1840s, due to activities surrounding
the Mexican War and the California gold rush. By the end of the Civil War in 1865, the Santa Fe Trail had provided
the access that opened up the Southwest to Anglo-American settlement and made No Man's Land, the future Oklahoma
Panhandle, much better known to a wide range of people.
[Source: "Encyclopedia of Oklahoma History and Culture"]

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