HISTORY OF GRANT COUNTY.
CHAPTER I
CURRENT HISTORY, 1862 TO 1885.
The early history of Grant county, like that
of almost every other section, must be garnered mostly through interviews with
men who assisted in making that history, and as few remember any but the most
striking and sensational incidents, a work depending for its material upon the
memories of men must of necessity be somewhat fragmentary and incomplete. It is
a well known fact also that those who are able to recall accurately events which
happened thirty-five or forty years ago are very few, so that the earliest
annals of our section can hardly be written as authoritatively as one could
wish. We have, however, endeavored to make the best possible use of the means at
hand, and when no printed accounts of happenings could be obtained, have
verified verbal reports of them as far as possible by consulting others beside
the original narrator that "out of the mouth of two or three witnesses every
word might be established."
The original Grant county has long been known to white men,
though its settlement dates back only about forty years. Its earliest history is
a part of the mist-like annals of old Oregon territory, with its trappers and
fur traders. Later it figured not inconspicuously in the military arrangements
of our government. By an order of the secretary of war, bearing date September
13, 1858, the old department of the Pacific was subdivided into the departments
of Oregon and California. General G. W. Harney, in whose honor the present
Harney county was named, was assigned to the command of the Oregon department.
Two days after his arrival at his headquarters in Vancouver, namely, on the 31st
of October, 1858, he secured the plaudits of the entire population of Oregon by
issuing an order opening the Walla Walla valley (which had been remanded to
barbarism in 1855 by the interdict of General Wool) to the occupation of white
men. Harney proved a better friend of the people than any of his predecessors,
though even he was inclined to think lightly of the Indian troubles and to
devote his attention mainly to gratifying his passion for establishing military
roads. Accordingly in April, 1859, he sent Captain D. H. Wallen to reconnoiter a
road from The Dalles to Salt Lake City, ascertaining whether it was practicable
to build such a road up the John Day valley, thence over to the headwaters of
the Malheur and down that river to the Snake. Wallen met no predatory bands of
Indians, and for a good reason. They had eluded him, and when safely in his rear
had swooped down I upon the Warm Springs reservation, driving away cattle
belonging to friendly Indians. The result was a call upon Harney for forces to
protect the reservation, to which that general replied by sending rifles and
ammunition. Acting upon this hint, the agent in charge organized a company of
reservation redskins, which, under command of Dr. Thomas. L. Fitch, marched up
the John Day in hope of recovering the stolen property. They killed a number of
braves, took their women and children prisoners, and secured a few horses, but
the immunity purchased by this victory was short-lived. A few months later the
Snake Indians again raided the reservation, killing a number of women and
children, scaring the whites out of the country and destroying thousands of
dollars worth of property.
Meanwhile Wallen pushed his explorations as far as the Harney
valley. He proved of inestimable service to the large immigration of 1859, only
one company of which was attacked by Indians.
In the spring of 1860 Harney sent Major E. Stein into the
region, for the purpose, among other things, of continuing the exploration of
the Salt Lake road from the point where Wallen left it onward. This expedition
and another sent in company with it under Captain A. J. Smith were resisted by
the Indians, so that reinforcements became necessary. When these arrived Stein
marched southward to what is now known as Stein mountain, and surprised a small
band of Indians there, who fled to the top of the butte. Stein pursued with all
his forces over the crest of the mountain and down the opposite slope. The
descent was through a narrow and dangerous canyon, but fortune favored the
command and it escaped with the loss of a single mule.
In September Colonel Wright, who had succeeded Harney to the
command of the department of Oregon, reported to headquarters that the routes of
immigration had been rendered safe by the operation of the troops. Even before
he made this statement, however, the horrible Snake river massacre, the details
of which are most shocking, had transpired, and soon accounts of it came in,
effectually contradicting his report.
Such was the condition of things in southeastern Oregon at
the close of the year 1860. Certainly but poor protection was offered to the
miner, the prospector or the agriculturist who might wish to seek his fortune in
this region. Yet no danger can deter the hardy searcher after gold from going
wherever he thinks himself likely to find the precious metal, and even while the
country was closed to miners by military orders, parties of men ventured into
its bounds prospecting for mineral deposits. The adventures of one of these
parties have been narrated at some length in a previous chapter and the
foundation of the Auburn camp and of Baker county detailed. We saw that when the
expedition which set out from Portland in the fall of 1861 in search of the Blue
Bucket diggings was ready to return home it resolved itself into two parties,
one of which set out through the John Day country, intending to return over the
Barlow trail. In answer to a request by the writer for information concerning
this party, D. S. Littlefield, of Baker City, stated that about the 18th of
October fourteen men started back from Burnt river by this route, intending to
go to Portland or The Dalles, and that the next day five more left. Of the men
who constituted this party Mr. Littlefield remembers the names of three,
Woodward, Bennet and Lewis, the first named being the captain of the company.
The next spring he was informed by Bennet and Lewis, who came over to where he
was mining in Griffin's gulch, that this party discovered gold on the north fork
of the John Day five or six days after they separated from their companions.
They staked out claims for all; then Woodward and most of the company went on to
get a supply of provisions, leaving Lewis and Bennet at the claims. These
remained upon the river as long as they could but they awaited in vain the
return of Woodward. At length their larder became dangerously lean, and they
were compelled to strike out for civilization. Upon reaching The Dalles they
found that Woodward had been killed by Indians while on his way to Portland.
Whatever may have been the merits of the mines discovered by these men, they had
little effect upon the history of the county, and the discovery which resulted
in the settlement of the region was of a somewhat later date. The earliest
settlers on Canyon creek had no knowledge of this discovery, were not induced
into the country by it, but were on their way to the Idaho mines when the
fortunate find was made which caused them to pause and eventually to give up
their design of going on to Florence.
Evidently the first company of gold seekers to reach the site
of the present Canyon City arrived on the 8th of June, 1862. William C. Allred,
one of the party, states that to his knowledge two or three companies had
started ahead of his for the Florence mines, but of their subsequent operations
he knows nothing. They must have traveled by some other route, for his company
saw no signs of a previous visitation to Canyon creek, and had to make their own
trail. They reached the headwaters of this noteworthy stream about the first of
June, and about midday on the 8th pitched camp on Little Pine creek, just below
the spot on which Marysville now stands, having left Canyon creek at the western
foot of Canyon mountain. "When we pitched camp," says Mr. Allred, "the
understanding was that we were not to move until the next morning, so several of
us took our pans and started off to do some prospecting. I concluded to try the
creek we had just descended, so headed my horse westward and soon found myself
on the banks of a rushing, roaring stream. At that time the bottom of the canyon
was covered with a heavy growth of brush and grass. The most likely place (now
known as Hog Point) to try a prospect was across the stream, so leaving my pan
and all needless articles on this side I plunged in, and after quite a struggle
reached the other bank. Then I found I had forgotten my handkerchief, in which I
purposed to tie up some dirt and gravel. There was nothing else to do but to
press my underwear into service, so taking off my drawers I constructed a
receptacle out of them, filled it with gravel and returned to the other bank.
The result of a few minutes panning was perhaps very nearly four dollars in
gold. I hastily mounted my horse and rode for camp to tell the boys what I had
found. Imagine my surprise and anger to find that during my absence the company
had decided to move on, and had left me. I came up with them on the flat just
below the present Prairie Diggings, and reported my find. But it was no use.
They were bound for Florence, and to Florence they would go, so there was
nothing for me to do but accompany them.
''When we reached the John Day river it was so high and swift
that we could not ford it. Of course that meant the building of a bridge, so we
prepared for a few days' stay. We found a good place to build a bridge just
below where the present bridge stands, and set to work with a will to build a
rude structure. Macgruder's party was close on our heels, and came up the next
day after we arrived. It was here that I became acquainted with this noted
leader through an adventure that nearly cost us both our lives. I was down on
the river doing some work when he came along and inquired if I thought it would
be safe to cross. 'No.' said I, 'it's too deep and the current too strong.
Besides, you notice that the bank overlies the water, and if you were once
caught in a current and carried under one of those banks you could not save
yourself.’ He listened to what I said, but announced his intention to try it,
anyway, and it was no use to argue with him. Where I failed, however, his horse
won, for the animal refused to enter the water. Time after time Macgruder urged
him to, but not a step would the animal take. So Macgruder got mad, and riding
back a few rods, dug in his spurs and whipped the horse into a run, thinking he
would force him to take the water.
"Just as I expected, the horse stopped short right on the
edge of the river, sending Macgruder sprawling over his head into the water.
Macgruder wore heavy spurs, and in some way they caught in the reins, thus
holding him feet uppermost, and strangling him. He struggled frantically, but
without avail. I ran to his aid, and climbing out on the horse, which was so
frightened it could hardly move, grasped the bridle to pull it off and
disentangle it from Macgruder. Just then the horse reared, throwing me into the
water. Then Macgruder, strangling and excited, clutched me and began to try to
climb up, just as drowning men do. He pulled me down, fighting like a mad man,
and to save myself I struck him a blow, causing him to loose his hold, after
which I took him by the hair and held him away from me. By this time we had
drifted out into the stream, and were being whirled rapidly away under one of
those overhanging banks, when I managed to grasp a willow and hold on, yelling
all the time for help. Some of the men hurried to the scene, and, throwing us
ropes and poles, hauled us out. Macgruder refused to take hold of anything but
me, and more dead than alive, we finally reached the shore. It was some time
before either of us were in a fit condition to work.
"Well, we crossed a few days later on the bridge we had
built, and proceeded on across the Dixie and Burnt river ranges, in due course
of time sighting Auburn. When we crossed down into the Powder River Valley
several of us determined to proceed no further, having heard discouraging
reports of the Idaho mines, and here twenty-six of us left the main company. Of
this number eighteen, including myself, elected to return to where I had panned
so well in the John Day country. We stayed at Auburn, which was then a thriving,
bustling camp, only long enough to secure more supplies, and then struck
westward over the old trail. Arriving at Canyon City, July 3d, we found a camp
of several hundred men, and the creek bed down to the John Day taken up as
claims. At Prairie Diggings we met a party of eighteen men bound for the Idaho
mines, but upon hearing from our company that the outlook at Florence was
discouraging, they voted to proceed no further. This was the beginning of the
Prairie Diggings camp, for they found gold, organized a company and stayed
there."
But during Mr. Allred’s absence from Canyon creek important
developments were taking place. The next day after the departure of his company
another party of California miners came through en route to Auburn and Idaho.
They camped on the banks of the creek, and some of their number suggested the
idea of prospecting for color. The result was that on what afterwards became
known as Whisky flat a good prospect was obtained, so good, indeed, that the
idea of proceeding further on their journey was given up. During the next few
days the banks of Canyon creek were prospected energetically, and soon the
entire creek bottom to the confluence of the stream, with the John Day river was
divided into mining claims.
The same causes which brought the parties of which we have
spoken into the valley were still operative to bring others here. Indeed the
spring of 1862 was a season of migrations among the California miners, nomadic
as were their habits, and ever ready as they were to take un the line of march
whenever a promising discovery was made. David Deitz says that on the road that
spring the traveler could look away ahead of his train and see other trains
winding up the hillsides like huge serpents, and looking backward could see yet
others far in his wake. Most of these emigrants were satisfied with the
prospects in Canyon creek and remained, so that before many months the place had
a numerous population. By the first of July there were probably three hundred
people operating between the site of the present Canyon City and the junction of
the creek with the John Day river.
Of course some regulations had to be made for the government
of the colony, especially in relation to the different mining claims, and on
July 3d the miners convened for the purpose of drafting a code of laws. The
regulations adopted were much the same as those which were in vogue in the
mining districts of California. George Woodburn was elected recorder of claims.
He had distinguished himself in California as a legislator, and is credited with
having made a map of eastern Oregon and Idaho remarkable for its approximate
accuracy. H. C. Paige had been spoken of for the position, but declined, as he
thought Woodburn the proper man. Mr. Paige, who served as secretary of this
meeting, tells us that he was also secretary of a similar assembly which
convened on Pine creek some time previous. The laws drafted at the meeting were
written out in extenso and copies posted in conspicuous places on Canyon
creek, Little and Big Pine creeks.
So busy were the miners in taking out the gold that they did
not spend time to build houses at first, but lived all summer in tents. The
first house in the district was erected by Tim Whiting & Company on Rebel Hill,
in the early fall of 1862, the material used in its construction being cotton
wood logs. It was later torn down to make room for a better building.
There is no disputing the fact that the Canyon creek placer
mines were very rich, certainly among the richest that have ever been discovered
on the Pacific coast, and if the best machinery could have been brought into
operation all at once, fabulous fortunes would have been made in a day. Even
with the crude methods in vogue, large returns were secured for labor, and
unlimited prosperity prevailed.
Those who know of the convivial disposition of the
California miner need not be told that the institutions which win lucre by
taking advantage of the social instincts in our nature were soon on the spot.
The saloon was here before gold had been discovered many days, and with it came
the gambler, with his deck of cards, ready to try his skill with any poor son of
toil who might be willing to "take a hand." Deprived of the restraining
influences of the home, the church and settled institutions, and with little of
the elevating and purifying atmosphere which refined, virtuous women take with
them; wherever they go, many a youth strayed from the path of purity and
rectitude, who might under more favorable circumstances have always remained a
light in his community. It must be remembered, however, that it is not the
miners who give any new camp the name of being a rough, lawless place. Labor
itself has its own purifying and restraining influence. The toiler may be
passionate and have in his blood the fire which may betray him into some crime
of violence or impel him to lapses from the highest morality. His passion for
the pleasures of society, failing to find pure sources of gratification, may
impel his footsteps into forbidden paths; but the toiler is seldom a criminal at
heart, or a moral leper, and his failings are chargeable to the force of
environment, rather than to a firmly rooted disposition to do wrong. It is that
despicable class that flock to the frontier because they cannot thrive in a land
where laws are established and enforced, who give the mining camps a bad name.
It is that equally reprehensible class, who, too indolent to seize legitimate
opportunities for themselves, prey like parasites upon the industry of others,
who bring reproach upon mining communities; and Canyon City had an abundant
supply of both.
Some of these men were killed in quarrels with each other,
but when a bad man met a violent death nobody attempted to bring the slayer to
justice. One gambler whose fate is frequently spoken of by old residents was Dan
La Follett, better known by the sobriquet of Black Dan. He is described by H. C.
Paige as having been a tall, handsome fellow, about thirty years of age,
probably a member of an excellent family in the east. "The last time I saw him
alive," says Paige, "he was standing in front of Marchand's saloon on a
beautiful evening about sundown. I had a ten-cent piece, a. rare coin in those
days, too small in value for any use, as nothing less than twenty-five cents
would purchase anything. Seeing a small crack in a post to the awning, I placed
the money in it and remarked to Dan, 'I wonder if anyone will dig that out.'
Having business, I went away, and in a few minutes heard a shot."
Dan was not killed instantly, but knew himself to be mortally
wounded. He was laid out on a table in a saloon, there to repose until summoned
to the "undiscovered country from whose bourne no traveler returns." To beguile
the last weary moments of his earthly pilgrimage he had the women of his
acquaintance called in, and they sang songs and poured whisky down his and their
own throats until the spark of his unprofitable life was quite extinguished.
Meanwhile a man had been sent to dig a grave for Dan, for it
was thought proper to give him a decent burial. The task was not an easy one, as
the grave had to be dug in hard cement, but at last it was accomplished.
Unfortunately, however, for the plans of the funeral managers, another man had
been shot in the night, and his body, too, must be laid to rest. A character
known as Sailor Jack was selected to dig a grave for the second victim. Jack
found the grave already dug for Dan, hastened back after the body for which he
was preparing a sepulchre, got it in the grave, others assisting, of course,
hastily lowered it to the bottom, and returned to Canyon City. In the language
of the miner's, Dan's grave was "jumped," and the gamblers who had his body in
charge were forced to dig another one for him.
But though little attention was paid to shooting scrapes over
card games and the like, miners were always determined that cold-blooded
murderers should be made to pay the penalty of their crimes. As Mr. Hiatt says,
the most determined mobs which ever undertook to perform acts contrary to law
were composed of California miners. Nevertheless, there seems to have been no
lynchings if we except the execution of Berry Wey during the early clays in
Grant county, consequently mistakes costing innocent men their lives (an almost
certain accompaniment of mob rule) have never darkened the earlier history of
the county.
M. Paige tells a strange incident in which a camp of
Californians came near making a serious mistake of this kind. He says that while
traveling into the John Day country from Auburn he lost his partner, George
Wilcox, somewhere along the trail, owing to the fact that Wilcox would stop and
talk to every man he met. Paige continued his journey alone, and soon his
troubles commenced. The John Day river had to be crossed. "I made several
attempts,” says he, "to cross by fording, but it was too deep and rapid. I
wanted to keep my clothes dry and save the pick, pan and shovel. At last I made
it, ten miles below, but got wet. Night was coming on. I saw smoke; thought it
was an Indian camp. Indians or no Indians, I was bound to go to that camp, as a
very cold wind was blowing; so hungry and wet, I started to the camp. I had been
in wild Indian camps alone many times before with safety, therefore felt that I
could take another chance. As god luck would have it, it proved to be a party
from California, and by me they were posted of the locality they were in. I lay
down. A little way off all had got together but two, who remained with me. I
thought nothing of it at the time. I slept between two men, Wallace and Kitchen,
from whom I learned at a later date that the meeting they held was for the
purpose of discussing about hanging me, believing I had murdered my partner and
was trying to get away. Only for the pick, shovel and pan, I might I have lost
my life, but they reasoned no man would commit a crime and pack those tools,
without food."
The story illustrates how liable to error is a company of men
disposed to take the reins of justice into their own hands. Yet resort to
lynching, dangerous and demoralizing though it is, cannot well be avoided in new
communities where crime is rife, and legally constituted courts lacking, or so
far distant as to preclude the probability if not the possibility of the law's
being enforced. The Grant county miners had no occasion to deal with a murderer
of the deepest dye until the early spring of 1863. Then, however, a crime was
committed of a very atrocious nature. It appears that Berry Wey and a man named
Gallagher were traveling together with pack animals between Canyon City and The
Dalles. While camped somewhere between Currant creek and Antelope valley, about
eighty miles this side of the latter point, Wey, as is supposed killed his
partner, and dragging the body of his victim to a wide-spreading juniper tree
secreted it there, covering it with a few boughs. He then continued on his way
to The Dalles with his murdered companion's money and mules. He purchased goods,
loaded the mules and returned to Canyon City, were he made the statement, on
being questioned regarding Gallagher, that his former partner had sold him his
mules and had gone to Portland over the Barlow road. Unfortunately for Wey,
however, some persons traveling toward Canyon City discovered the body in its
hiding place. Wey was arrested, but escaped from his guard and struck out over
the mountains. He was followed to Boise City, captured and brought back to
Canyon. Upon arriving there, he was forcibly taken by a committee of citizens
from the custody of Frank McDaniels, the deputy sheriff in charge. They purposed
to hang him immediately, without ceremony, and this would doubtless have been
done were it not for the efforts of Ike Hare, who is described as being a bold,
fearless man, and a fine speaker. He had served as an officer in the Mexican
war, and later in the legislative halls of California. Hare mounted a pile of
whip-sawed lumber and made an eloquent plea for calmness and prudence, advising
that the man be kept till the next day, then given a "fair and impartial trial."
"Yes, gentlemen," said he, "we will give him a fair and impartial trial. We know
him to be guilty, and we will hang him, anyway."
Next day a jury of twelve men was selected, counsel was
furnished the prisoner and a trial in somewhat resembling legal form was had. He
was convicted and the day following was taken outside the town and hanged. The
sentence was considered a just one and his executioners were never questioned by
the law on account of their acts.
It is related that after Wey's escape from his custodians, an
express rider named Van Tichner related the circumstance to the people of
Auburn. They were so incensed that when, a few days later, McDaniels came
through their town following the trail of the murder they were ready to hang
him. A strong plea kept the mob from carrying their threats into execution.
McDaniels proceeded on his journey and soon had his man. The deputy sheriff was
so angry at Van Tichner for causing him this trouble that he threatened to kill
the expressman on sight. He probably had no intention of doing so but in time
they met; Van Tichner got the drop on his adversary, and McDaniels fell at the
first fire.
Throughout the whole of the year 1862 men were pouring into
Grant county from different parts of the west. Many who failed to find what they
were looking for in the Auburn camp or elsewhere in what is now Baker county
came to the John Day valley, and hundreds of prospectors fresh from California,
as well as others disappointed in the Idaho mines, were searching for gold in
all the creek bottoms and gulches. The Canyon creek camp was far more important
than any other in Grant county, and Canyon City early became a populous,
thriving town. During the first few years the banks of the stream from Whisky
gulch to the John Day river were covered with shacks and tents. What is now the
town of John Day was called lower town and Canyon City, upper town, but while
the houses were not arranged in any order there was practically only one
community, and that extended over an area more than two miles long. The
discovery of gold on Little Pine creek led to the settlement of Marysville.
which in 1862 had perhaps two hundred and fifty or three hundred inhabitants.
The Prairie Diggings camp, as before stated, was discovered by a party of
eighteen Californians, mostly of German descent, who prospected there early in
1862, while en route to Florence, finding some gold, but not enough to cause a
permanent halt in their march. On being met by Allred's return party, as
heretofore related, and informed of the discouraging reports from Florence, they
determined to return and prospect the region more thoroughly. They soon found
fair prospects and located eighteen claims. Among the original discoverers of
the camp were George Robinson, Bar Smith, A. Lytle. W. Stone and Neil McNultv.
Immediately afterward. F. C. Sels, E. J. W. Stemme and three others took six
adjoining claims, and a little later several more locations were made, so that
the camp soon numbered between thirty and forty men. The original discoverers at
once pooled their interests into a joint stock company and began constructing a
ditch from a creek, some two miles distant. The ditch was completed early in the
summer, and carried about three hundred miner's inches. What water the
incorporators could not use was sold to individual claim owners, who thus
procured enough water to. keep them busy about four hours each day.
The same year (1862) another and much larger ditch was
constructed by Marysville and Canyon City miners, conveying some eight hundred
inches of water from Indian and Big-Pine creeks. This canal was twelve miles
long. It belonged to a co-operative miners' company, unincorporated, and in it
water rights were secured by the Prairie Diggings miners. At present this ditch
and the smaller one are both controlled by the Hoosier Boy Mines Company, and
are used to furnish water power for their stamp mills and hydraulics. It has
been estimated that the eighteen original owners of the Prairie Diggings cleared
$10, 000 each during the first year of their operations, and many hundreds of
thousands have been garnered from this natural thesaurus of wealth by the
numerous companies which have since owned them.
The first ditch constructed by the Canyon creek miners was
known as the Rawhide ditch, because the flumes were built of rawhide, on account
of the lack of lumber in the community at the time. The ditch took its water out
of Canyon creek, near where the courthouse now stands, and conveyed it bout a
mile down the west side. Eli Lester and A. P. Riley were its principal owners.
It was a very small ditch, its capacity being about two hundred inches, and it
was abandoned entirely after having been used a year or two. It did not long
antedate the Lone Star ditch, put in by a small party of Texans. It took its
waters out of the creek, tapping that stream about a mile above Canyon City. By
the close of the year 1862 it was one mile long, and the next year was continued
to Blue gulch. For some time the Lone Star was the principal ditch of the Canyon
district and it was used more or less until some nine or ten years ago.
The Humboldt ditch was also begun in 1862. It was so named
from the fact that its first owners came from Humboldt county, in California.
Like the Lone Star, it was a public ditch, and water could be obtained from it
for fifty cents per inch per day of twelve hours. The work on this ditch was
done largely by miners owning property under it, who received their pay in
water. The ditch is still in use, though it has long since passed out of the
ownership of the Sproul Brothers and Kaiser, its original proprietors. It
occupies a position on the hillside far above the old Lone Star, so that a
breakage anywhere in it was sure to cause like damage to the other ditch,
doubling the expense of making repairs. To remedy this, the Humboldt purchased
the Lone Star five or six years ago, since which time the latter ditch has
remained unused and neglected.
During the early days perhaps nobody in the county had any
idea of permanently settling here. The miners purposed to get all the money they
could in a few: years, then return to the lands whence they came, to enjoy their
speedily acquired wealth. Judging by the latitude and the altitude of the place,
it was thought that the climate must be very cold, too cold to be endured with
any comfort during the winter months. This belief was fostered also by the
unusually cold, backward spring of 1862, following, as it did, a winter of
extreme severity. Agriculture they considered out of the question entirely, and
notwithstanding the abundance of luxuriant bunch-grass covering each hill from
base to crest and spreading out profusely over the valleys, even Oregonians
thought that stockraising could never be profitably engaged in, owing to the
supposed length and severity of the winters. Provisions of all kinds, including
potatoes and other vegetables, had to be imported from with out, and as freight
from The Dalles was 16 to 24 cents per pound, it may be imagined that the price
of living was high. The enormous profits to be reaped from the raising of
vegetables, should experiments in that direction prove successful, early induced
a few men to plant small patches of potatoes and garden vegetables. Mr. Overholt
says that for some unknown reason all the first horticultural experiments failed
utterly, confirming the general impression that the country was worthless for
agriculture. It may be that the planting was done too early. Nevertheless,
potatoes were successfully raised during the early 'sixties, for John Herburger
states that he got a fine crop at a very early date. He offered them for sale at
twenty-five cents a pound, and they were purchased with such avidity that he was
forced to limit the sale to any one man to four pounds, so that all might enjoy
the taste of the unwonted luxury. He says that not infrequently he got a dollar
for four potatoes, a fact which shows that the soil was capable of giving
generous proportions to its products. The success of Mr. Herburger and the few
early experimenters encouraged others to try, and so agriculture in the John Day
valley got its start. The same causes induced the importation of a few cattle
and horses, giving inception to the stock industry. The first homesteads were
taken by B. C. Trowbridge and William Wilson, on the 16th day of July 1862. They
were situated in the John Day valley, on the opposite side of the river from the
mouth of Canyon creek, and were held originally by their locators, in
partnership.
At first all lumber used in the construction of flumes and
sluices had to be whip-awed. As it sold for three hundred dollars per thousand,
an excellent opening was presented to the lumberman, and perceiving this,
Sanborn & Roy brought in a little sawmill in the fall of 1862, setting it up on
Big Pine creek. It had a capacity of between one thousand and fifteen hundred
feet per flay. A little later a mill was established on Canyon creek above
Canyon City, by a man named Penfield, and the necessity of producing the lumber
supply of the colony by the laborious whipsaw method was obviated.
When fall came many of the miners wished to return to their
homes for fresh supplies of provisions, and perhaps, too, because they feared
the severity of the coming winter. A miners' meeting was therefore called at
which it was decided by common consent that claims should be respected until
June 15, 1863, though no work should be done on them between the time of the
meeting and that date.
Just how many people there were in Grant county in the fall
of 1862 we have no means of determining, but conservative men estimate the
number at between four and five thousand. Of course, these men could not bring
with them provisions enough to last for any considerable length of time, so a
base of supplies had to be sought somewhere. Mr. Hiatt tells us that at the
Auburn camp there were a great many discouraged and disappointed men who were
willing to sell their outfits and provisions for almost any figure and get out
of the country, and the same may have been true to a less extent in the John Day
mining region. But though the circumstances might lessen the demand for tools
and provisions somewhat, a sure base of supplies must be found, and the miners,
though they knew not their exact geographical position at first, were
sufficiently cognizant of their whereabouts to look toward The Dalles as their
nearest supply point. The first pack train to enter the John Day valley was
brought from The Dalles by J. J. Cozart and D. N. Luce. It had started for the
Salmon river country, but turned aside to Canyon creek, on account of the
reports of miners met en route. It arrived some time in July or August, and from
its packs the first two stores in Canyon City obtained their stocks of goods,
which were duly installed upon shelves sheltered by canvas tents. Later, J. W.
Case and a Frenchman named Wadleigh brought in packs of goods. Nevertheless,
provisions were not plentiful in the fall of 1862.
The business of packing provisions into the mining camps on
mules was a very lucrative one, and many were engaged in it during the first few
years, notwithstanding the terrible gauntlet of highwaymen and Indians which had
to be run by the freighters and packers. To accommodate these adventurous
knights of primeval transportation, and at the same time to draw trade, to their
little city, public-spirited merchants of The Dalles had the old trail
materially improved. Indeed the first men who went through from Canyon City to
The Dalles after provisions were a company made up of two or three members from
each party of Californians. They followed the route which looked easiest, guided
only by the contour of the country and such inaccurate traders' maps as they
possessed. On their return journey they were enabled to make several cut-offs,
but the trail they made was far from the best that could be found. To facilitate
transportation the citizens of The Dalles straightened out and improved this
primitive highway, putting a new bridge across the DesChutes. river many miles
above the old one. At a later date a company was formed, known as The Dalles
Military Road Company, which obtained a grant of land from the general
government to remunerate it for building a military highway from The Dalles to
Fort Boise. A fair road was built, over which, for many years, vast amounts of
freight were conveyed by pack train and wagon.
"For several miles south of Upper Currant creek, and west of
a small stream called the Muddy, which comes from the south and strikes Currant
creek at right angles, is a large scope of country of peculiar formation," says
an Oregonian correspondent, writing in 1886. "The appearance of this locality
can best be understood by the name 'Potato Hills,' given ; to it by the first
travelers along the route. These small grassy knolls were clustered thickly over
the expanse, interspersed with scrubby pines and clusters of service berry, wild
plum and greasewood bushes. These potato hills increase in size, elevation and
ruggedness to the east, a distance of nearly five miles, till the little stream
of Muddy is reached, when the hills give place to bluffs of shelving and scale
rocks.
"In this locality the Snake Indians made their principal
attacks upon trains and travelers in 1862, though the whole distance from this
place to Canyon City was subject to their attacks. Down this creek filed a pack
train belonging to a man named Nelson, who was on his return from The Dalles
with a load of goods. Along the creek were numerous clusters of wild currant
bushes, from which the creek received its name, affording excellent shelter for
the skulking Indians. The packers were gaily, or otherwise, urging their mules
along the gravelly path, and had possibly forgotten that the locality was a
dangerous one.
"The train was strung out down the narrow trail, the
bell-mare and rider far in the lead. An abrupt, though low, ledge of scale rocks
was a few rods to the left of the trail, the creek with its skirting of current
hushes close to the right; the packers were busy 'fixing’ the packs, and the
riding animals were loose on the trail. Suddenly the rider of the bell mare
shouted ‘Indians!' to those behind, and, clapping spurs to his horse, clattered
off down the trail at a keen run. Out from the Currant bushes, down from the
ledge of rocks, poured the Indians. Some tried to catch the mules, others opened
fire with bows and arrows and guns upon the packers, who left their work and
hurriedly mounted saddled mules and scampered back on the trail to the rear. The
Indians were too numerous to be successfully contended with by the train; two
men, armed only with revolvers, could not reasonably hope to cope with fifty or
more Indians, all armed, many of them with rifles. The music of the fleeing
bell, far in the front, could not be heard, and when the two men had retired to
a safe distance, they stopped on an elevation and surveyed the savage horde
below, in earnest chase of the fleeing mules. The men all escaped unhurt, but
the mules and cargo were lost."
The above incident is only one of a very great number in
which Indians robbed pack trains during the early days, sometimes getting the
mules without killing their owners, but taking human life whenever they could.
The road was also infested in some places with highwaymen, or "road agents," as
they styled themselves. These were as unrelenting as the Indians, and almost as
much to be feared. They usually accomplished their object without bloodshed,
being able to secrete themselves so as to take their victims wholly by surprise,
but when resistance was offered they failed not to use their weapons with deadly
effect. The Indians were also very troublesome on the road entering Canyon from
the south, but the "road agents" confined their operations mostly to the
northern route.
Not alone were the routes of travel infested by the thievish
and murderous redskins, but the country contiguous to the mines was also overrun
by the same scourge. The Indians did not attack the miners in the towns, but
contented themselves with hanging around the outskirts and picking up any horses
or mules they might find insufficiently guarded, or murdering small companies of
prospectors. The residents of Marysville and Canyon creek were accustomed to ire
herders to range their horses on the hills during the flay time and put them in
a large corral at night. On at least one occasion the Indians made a desperate
effort to raid this corral at night, but failed.
Late in the fall of 1862 a company of five men were
prospecting up the South Fork of the John Day river on a stream since known as
Murderer's creek. They made their camp under a projecting rock near the brook,
and not far from the road over the Blue mountains. The road was rather
infrequently traveled by wagons or pack trains, and as the men knew this, and
had seen no signs of Indians, they believed themselves absolutely safe. One
evening they retired, as usual, to their beds under the rock, and lay there
conversing and smoking. Suddenly, about dusk, the sharp crack of four rifles
broke upon their ears, and simultaneously a flight of arrows came from the
neighboring rocks, some of which found lodgment in the bodies of the unfortunate
men. One of the miners was killed outright, and all the others were wounded. Two
struggled to the creek and down its shore half a mile, when one of them could go
no farther, having been mortally wounded by a rifle ball. He lay down in a
cluster of bushes close to the stream and died. His companion pushed on to
Officer's ranch, where he also passed away the next day, after a night of great
agony.
The following summer a party of emigrants, with whom was G.
I. Hazeltine, were camped near the place where the first victim died. While two
of the girls belonging to the party were wandering along the creek one of them
found a gold watch near a cluster of bushes. Upon further search they discovered
the skeleton of a man, undoubtedly the remains of the murdered miner.
The two other members of this ill-starred prospecting party
escaped from their covert under the rocks to a thicket of brush a short distance
away, where they paused, that the wounds of the younger man might be bandaged.
It was found, that he had received a very severe wound in his side, from a rifle
ball, also two less serious wounds from arrows. His companion, a man quite far
advanced in life, was but slightly injured by an arrow, and considered himself
most fortunate in escaping so well, but time proved that the arrow inflicting
the apparently trifling wound had been poisoned. When the younger man had been
made as comfortable as possible, the two climbed painfully over the high bluffs
on the east side of the South Fork, hoping to make their way to Canyon City.
They were afraid to take the trail along the main river, lest the Indians should
again attack them, so kept on over the rough, gorge-cut country as best they
might. The death of the younger man seemed unavoidable, so he finally prevailed
upon his aged companion to leave him and try to save his own life. The old man
eventually reached Canyon City, but the poison had permeated his system so
completely that he could not live.
Meanwhile his deserted companion struggled slowly onward,
stopping at all convenient places to bathe his wounds. He, too, at last reached
the town. By careful nursing he recovered sufficiently, after a few months'
confinement, to go about again, though he never regained his former vigorous
health.
Some time during the year 1864 a man named Middlesworth left
his pack train half a mile outside Canyon City and himself came into town to
spend a few hours. While he was gone the Indians stampeded the mules, running
them over the mountains and into Harney valley. Mr. Middlesworth raised a
company of men and set out in am attempt to recover his property. In due time he
came upon them in the valley, but his force was so badly outnumbered by Indians
that he considered it unwise to make an attack.
During the same fall an attempt was made by Indians to drive
away some horses that were feeding on the hills near Canyon City. They were
opposed by a superior force of white men and driven back, leaving one of their
number apparent dead. His only wound, however, was found to consist of a broken
leg. His captors brought him into town, and when he had sufficiently recovered
to endure the operation, his limb was removed. Mr. Onsley. the physician of the
town, was without a supply of surgical instruments, but succeeded in amputating
the wounded member with a knife and a butcher's saw. Chloroform was also
lacking, but the stolidity and stoicism of the savage were equal to the
occasion. After recovery he traversed the streets at will on crutches, living
off the bounty of the men he tried to rob, and apparently enjoying his new
environment. For several months he remained in civilized society, but the
promptings of his savage nature at last impelled him back to the wilderness. It
is said that someone gave him an old horse to get rid of him.
During this and the two or three years succeeding, roving
bands infested the stage and immigrant roads, thieving and murdering,
terrorizing small settlements and infusing into the everyday life of the miner,
the rancher and the traveler an element of unrest and anxiety that was almost
unendurable. The details of these raids are not only intensely interesting as
stories, but they show the conditions under which life was sustained during this
period of the country's history. Stages over the various routes suffered a great
deal from Indian attacks and travelers never risked their lives on journeys
without being well prepared for defense. An interesting story is told of an
attack by the Indians on the Canyon City-Dalles stage, as follows:
H. H. Wheeler, for whom Wheeler county is named, came to The
Dalles in 1863 with considerable money realized in the lumber business in
California. With this capital he established the first mail and stage line from
The Dalles to Canyon City. Commencing in 1864 he took the mail contract for four
years, at $12,000 per annum. He ran four-horse coaches, and had eight changes of
horses on the route. The coaches held eleven passengers, and the fare was $40
from The Dalles to Canyon City. Besides, Mr. Wheeler had a contract to carry all
of Wells, Fargo & Company's express, mostly gold from the famous Canyon City
mines. It was a paying business, but the risks were great.
In the fall of 1866 a band of Indians attacked the stage, on
which were Mr. Wheeler and Wells Fargo & Company's messenger, H. C. Paige, about
three miles above where the town of Mitchell now is, then in Wasco, now in
Wheeler county. The Indians had rifles and commanded the driver to stop, which
he did. Paige at once opened fire on the Indians, but without effect. Then a big
buck on the hillside shot Mr. Wheeler through the face, the bullet passing
through both cheeks, taking the upper gum and teeth away, besides a piece of jaw
bone. He hung his whip on the brake, jumped off the stage and unhitched one of
the leaders, while Paige unhitched the other. Each then mounted a horse and rode
at full speed by to C. W. Myer's station, on Bridge creek, a distance of about
six miles. Some of the redskins followed them, while the remainder stayed to
plunder the stage. About half way to the station Paige's horse threw him.
(Neither horse was broken to ride), and while he held the Indians at bay with
his rifle Wheeler caught the horse and helped him (Paige) to mount again. The
Indians continued shooting from a distance, but the pursued suffered no further
injury. Balked of their human prey, the entire band turned their attention to
the stage and its contents. They cut open the mail bags and cut the top off the
coach, broke open the express box and took everything they thought of value.
Fortunately for the express company, the Indians had never seen paper money, and
threw $10,000 in greenbacks contemptuously to one side, which Paige picked up
two hours afterward, when he returned to the spot with a posse of armed men. The
Indians had by this time fled, so had the wheel horses. Two days afterward Mr.
Wheeler went down on the stage to The Dalles to have his mouth treated. During
the time Mr. Wheeler was running the stage line the Indians stole eighty-nine
head of horses, for which he has had a claim of $20,000 pending before the
government for twenty years.
Howard Maupin was a pioneer of 1864, who settled in Antelope
valley, on the Canyon City road. When he came here with his family and stock the
Piute Indians held undisputed sway over all the country south of the road
leading from The Dalles to the mines on the John Day river, at Canyon City.
These Indians were warlike by instinct, and marauders from necessity; they knew
no peaceful neighbors; every stranger was an enemy. From time immemorial a Piute
Indian, standing in his realm of sage brush, alkali beds and rim rock canyons,
could turn his eyes in no direction but he faced a land where dwelt hereditary
enemies of his tribe.
When the whites began to pass through his country as
immigrants to western Oregon, or in later years, as gold seekers, the Piutes
regarded them as but a new enemy come to torment them when in strong parties,
and proper victims to kill and plunder when venturing in small ones.
Such were the environments of Antelope valley, when, lured by
its luxuriant grass, which covered an almost unlimited scope of free pasturage.
Howard Maupin built his cabin. He was not ignorant of the danger that menaced
him, for he had spent his youth on the Texan border, and was well schooled in
Indian character, learned in many a. bloody conflict with Comanches and Apaches.
He was a man of gigantic proportions, a Hercules in strength, true to his
friends and a terror to his enemies.
One dark July night, while a gentle drizzling rain was
nattering on his cabin roof, the stampeding and snorting of the horses in the
corral awoke Mrs. Maupin. She heard the swish of the lariet. followed by a wild
rush of the horses in the corral. From this she knew that the Indians were
endeavoring to steal their horses, and she awakened her husband. Howard Maupin
rushed to the corral: all was dark, nor sight nor sign of Indians was to be seen
or heard, but the horses were greatly excited. He waited and listened for some
time, but could not hear footfalls of moccasined Indians.
He then returned to the house, put on his clothes and, with
gun in hand, started back to the corral. The Indians, on seeing or hearing his
first approach, had clambered over the stone wall that formed the enclosure, and
squatted in the shadows. During the short time it took Maupin to go to the house
and dress, the Indians made a breach in the wall and drove the horses out.
Maupin could hear their hoofs clatter as the Indians drove them up a steep,
stony hill. The Indians were not mounted, and as Maupin's first appearance had
balked their attempts to catch horses to ride, they were attempting to drive off
the band afoot, and consequently could not put them at a full run.
Maupin, followed by his twelve-year-old son, gave chase, and
in a mile came up to the horses. They saw in the darkness an Indian glide behind
a rock. Maupin fired at the shadow. It fell, and then seemed to be endeavoring
to crawl off. Another shot made the shadowy phantom lie still. The shots
startled the horses, and to fire more was to put the whole herd to flight. As
dark shadows of Indians glided among the horses Maupin had hard work to keep his
son from shooting. By daylight he and his son had the horses under control, and
drove them back to the corral.
After breakfast he and his son went back over the ground
again. By the rock where he had shot at the Indian was a great pool of blood and
many wads of grass where the wounded Indian's comrades had vainly attempted to
staunch the blood by plugging the wound with grass. The Indian had died,
however, and his companions had carried him to a stony hillside and covered him
with rock. It was most probably the attention which the Indians were giving
their wounded companion that prevented their killing Maupin and his son and
making off with the band of horses.
A short time afterwards the Indians made a successful raid
upon Maupin's horses and drove off the herd, and it is to recover something from
the United States that his widow is now pressing her claim. Maupin always
believed that Paulina, the chief, was responsible for his loss. A year or more
afterwards he had an opportunity to avenge his loss, and at the same time rid
the country of a murderer and robber who had been the scourge of the border.
Frank McBean first came into Grant county in 1863, when
miners dug coarse gold out of Canyon creek by sackfuls. He was there when the
mail sacks and pack trains ran the gauntlet of ambush by day and swift attack by
night, when packers and express riders were left dead by the wayside and a
government escort was necessary to safe conduct from The Dalles to Canyon City.
About 1865 he joined the United States troops stationed at Camp Watson, and
followed the savages into the Beaver creek country, where they were overhauled
and engaged in a battle, the details of which are not known. However, the prompt
measures taken by the miners and soldiers served to check the hostile raids, and
trouble was only intermittent until the murderous old chief, Paulina, was
killed.
In 1870 Mr. McBean engaged in the mail service of the United
States, his first contract being to transport military mail once a week from
Canyon City to Fort Harney, in which service he gained the distinction of being
the first mail carrier to enter what is now Harney countv. This route was over
sixty-eight miles of mountain road, which was traversed on horseback when
possible, and at other times on snowshoes. For four years he filled this
service, during which his contract was extended to carrying general mail from
Canyon City to Camp McDermitt, in Nevada. This service carried him over a route
that is unique in the history of the United States mail service in Oregon, for
it extended 245 miles south of the initial point, in which distance Fort Harney
and Egan, near Burns, were the only post offices supplied. He carried a camping
outfit, and wood, water and grass were the only adjuncts necessary to his
stopping places. After leaving Harney and Egan the only inhabitants passed were
the pioneer cabins of Todhunter & Devine, at Alvord, and at Camp C. F. Smith.
In August, 1866, a band of about fifty Indians raided the Elk
creek and Dixie creek regions, murdering, firing buildings and stealing stock. A
temporary camp, named Logan, had been established and garrisoned the previous
winter, on the north side of Strawberry Butte, but in the spring the troops were
removed, and the country was left practically unprotected from the attack of the
savages. This camp was most advantageously located. It guarded the best Indian
passes into the John Day valley, and had it been continuously and properly
garrisoned settlers in the valley and travelers along the Boise road, from
Canyon City to Willow creek, would have been comparatively safe. But for some
unexplained reason, and against the earnest protest of the settlers and miners,
the camp was never properly garrisoned, and was eventually abandoned. Camp
Watson, established in 1865, was sixty miles from Canyon City, on The Dalles
road, and therefore no reliance could be placed upon its troops in time of
danger. For many months the John Day valley was at the mercy of the Indians, and
during this time many miners were killed and their property stolen, cabins were
burned, schools in the settlements were abandoned, and business of all kinds was
at a standstill. These conditions prevailed, with but little change, until late
in the year 1867. when proper consideration was given the demands of the
settlers and effectual protection was granted.
From 1865 to 1878 was an alternating period of placer and
quartz mining and the development of the agricultural and horticultural
resources of the county. While the richer placer mines of Canyon creek had been
practically worked out, placer mining near John Day continued into the
‘seventies, the work being done by Chinamen on shares.
The first quartz mill was established in the summer of 1867,
in connection with J. A. Porter & Company's sawmill at Susanville. The mill was
an eight-stamp, two-battery mill, with a capacity of between eight and ten tons
a day, and was erected by a joint stock company of mining and business men of
the county at a cost of about $5,000. John L. Miller was the first manager. The
mill was not a success, however, for the reason that it was poorly constructed,
and the ore was not rich enough. It was operated but very little, and in the
early 'seventies was purchased by Cabal & Roy, and taken to their mine.
In the meantime a number of ranches had been taken in the
valley, at first for the sole purpose of harvesting hay for stock feeding, and
cultivating vegetables for home supplies. The B. C. Trowbridge ranch was taken
in 1862. A little later the Belshaw ranch was located twenty-two miles further
down the river. D.B. Rinehart was also among the early ranchers, In the early
'seventies Nicholas Noble and John Paul settled on Long creek. Their old ranch
is now known as the John Randu place. In the south end of the county W. S.
Southworth located at Seneca, in 1883. These have been followed by others, until
all the arable lands were appropriated. The change from stock ranches to farms
was gradual, in fact, it has never become radical, as the stock interests in the
county have always been so great, and the facilities for shipping farm products
so poor, that there has been no occasion for the ranchman to devote himself
exclusively to agricultural pursuits. But the adaptation of the land to
agriculture has been thoroughly tested. As early as 1870 there was an
overproduction of grain in John Day valley. Much of the surplus found its way
over the mountains to Camp Harney. On the Belshaw, Trowbridge and Rinehart
places orchards were planted many years ago, and they now produce, in great
abundance, fruits of all varieties and of the finest flavor. It may be of
interest to record here the fact that in the early 'sixties oats and barley sold
for ten cents per pound, while potatoes brought $20 per hundred pounds.
Following the mining industry, the next to receive the
attention of the settlers was the stock industry. Until 1882 the stock men dealt
chiefly in cattle and horses. In that and the following year over 30,000 head of
cattle were driven from the Grant ranges to those of Harney and Malheur
counties. Other thousands were sold and many cattlemen became sheepmen. Herds of
cattle gave way to flocks of sheep, principally because of a change in the
conditions of the ranges. The first sheep for breeding purposes were brought in
by Small and Wolfinger in 1867. Because of the care that has been exercised in
breeding, and because of the special adaptation of the ranges to the sheep
industry, Grant county has always excelled in the production of wool. The
Spanish. American and Delaine Merinos are the breeds that have done best here,
and Grant county clips are noted for their long fibre, light shrinkage and
freedom from cockleburrs and grease.
Horse breeding was one of the early industries, existent with
the raising of cattle. For many years some of the best horses in the state came
from the Grant county ranges and ranches. But the industry has degenerated,
owing to the fact that it has ceased to be sufficiently remunerative. Thousands
of horses roam the ranges now and breed at will, the result being that the most
desirable draught horses and roadsters cannot be found here. While there are a
few who are giving special attention to the breeding of blooded stock, the
industry has practically lost its importance.
A condition of general prosperity prevailed in the late
'sixties. On July 1st, 1869, there were $1,501.97 in the county treasury. On the
main John Day river eighty claims had been taken, 9,064 acres were fenced, 3,608
acres were under cultivation. The largest claims fenced contained 400 and 250
acres respectively. Freight rates from The Dalles were from six to ten cents per
pound. A comparison of prices prevailing for necessaries in 1869 and in 1888
shows that while in a few instances there was a marked difference, owing to new
freight lines and changes in rates, as a rule supply, demand and cost of
transportation have maintained equable relations. Some of the prices in 1869
were as follows: Coffee, 26 cents; kerosene, $1.12 to $1.25; beans, 11 to 14
cents : butter, 45 to 50 cents; eggs, 50 cents ; soap, per box, $3 to $3.50. In
1888: Coffee, 25 cents; kerosene, $1.00; beans, 12 to 14 cents; 'butter, 35
cents; eggs, 50 cents; soap, per box, $3. Greenbacks in 1869 were worth only 72
cents on the dollar.
An act passed by Congress in October, 1868, was vastly
important in its effect upon the people of Grant county. This was the measure
authorizing the construction of The Dalles military road, which ran up the John
Day valley, across the divide, and down Willow creek and Malheur river, in
Malheur county. By this act the government and the state of Oregon were
defrauded of 600,000 acres of land, including large areas of the best ranges
raid arable tracts of Grant county. This land is now valued at many million
dollars, and setters, instead of being allowed to homestead it, or purchase it
from the government at a nominal price, have been compelled to buy it of the
Eastern Oregon Land Company, at several dollars per acre. This has worked great
hardship to the settlers of Grant county, and it will be many years before the
evils resulting from this land steal will disappear. A complete history of the
gigantic fraud is given in another chapter.
On the evening of December 18, 1872, there was a slight
earthquake in Canyon Cityand vicinity. It lasted only a few seconds, but during
this inconsiderable space of time its effects were distinctly perceptible.
Houses were shaken, glassware, earthenware and tin ware clinked together in the
shelves, swinging lamps oscillated from side to side, and in other ways the
activity of the earth was manifested. The stores were all open, and business men
and loungers, noticing the movement of articles over the floor and on the
counters and shelves, and experiencing the sensation of rocking, believed at
first that they were victims of hallucinations. The violence of the disturbance
increasing, however, and finally culminating in a slight though distinct shock,
these beliefs were dispelled, and the true nature of the phenomenon became
apparent. A few were badly frightened, but no damage whatever was done.
Even before the establishment of schools the influence of the
church began to permeate the mining camps and the hastily built settlements.
When the first sermon was preached, or where, or by whom, in Grant county,
history does not say, but one thing is certain, the gold hunter and the
Methodist preacher arrived on Canyon creek just about the same time. The first
preachers were men who adapted themselves to the surroundings, working during
the week and preaching on Sundays, thus imitating the example of the great
apostle to the Gentiles. Services were held in the open air, in tents and in
private houses, and later on, in the school houses, also at the court house, and
in the Good Templars' hall.
The first society was organized at Canyon City in 1874, Rev.
A. J. Joslyn, pastor, and quite a number of the original members of the class
are on the church roll yet. The first M. E. church built in the county was begun
at Canyon City by Rev. G. W. Grammis in November, 1876, and pushed to completion
immediately. Since then three other churches have been erected at the following
places : Long Creek, John Day and Prairie City. The churches are well furnished
inside and outside. Evidently the old pioneers intended to do the best they
could, and spared no expense to have creditable churches. The seating capacity
of each church is about 250, except the one at John Day, that being smaller.
Although situated so far from a railroad, the annual conference with Bishop
Walden held a regular session at the Canyon City church during the regular
pastorate of Rev. G. W. Grammis nine years ago. The Long Creek church is
situated on a hill out and alone from the rest of the buildings. The cyclone of
June, 1894, wrenched the building somewhat, but it was built on a rock, and
stands firm, though slightly disfigured.
The Prairie City church has more veteran members than the
other three combined, and is well attended.
The early Methodists did not forget the Sunday school, and
Frank I. McCallum, of John Day, has the books of the first school ever held in
the John Day valley. The records show that a Mr. Dillinger was the first
superintendent. The Canyon City Sunday school has an enviable reputation and a
most serviceable superintendent in the person of lion. E. S. Penfield, who has
been superintendent since the school was organized, over twenty years ago. At
present the school has a membership of seventy. Each of the four churches has an
Epworth League. There have been seventeen pastors on the Canyon City charge
since Rev. A. J. Joslyn began in 1874, several attaining more than local
celebrity.
The Episcopal church was established at Canyon City in 1876,
with Dr. Nevins as the rector. A handsome church edifice was erected in the same
year. Another of the early Episcopal ministers was Arthur X. Wrixon. The Advents
have a society at John Day.
For a short time during the summer of 1878 Grant county was
greatly disturbed, and intense excitement was created by the sudden appearance
of the Indians. When Buffalo Horn announced his intention to lead the Bannocks
to war, the aid of the Piutes on the Malheur reservation was sought and given,
and early in June, 1878, the redskins appeared several hundred strong on
Strawberry range, and the mountains east, General Howard pursuing. Here the
Bannocks were joined by the Piutes, and followed the range westward, the troops
being in close pursuit. No damage was done by the Indians thus far in Grant
county. When about twenty miles south of Canyon City, the inhabitants here took
to the abandoned tunnels west of town, most of the people taking clothes and
other valuables and preparing to stay until the danger was over. Many did stay
several days. At Long Creek a stockade and log fort were built, and into it was
taken all stock, goods and the women and children. The Indians passed westward,
without attempting to molest the inhabitants of Canyon and John Day, and crossed
the valley about ten miles below Canyon creek, where they burned several ranch
houses and murdered two sheep herders, nephews of James Small.
While the Indians were passing south of Canyon a scouting
party of seven men left the town to watch the Indians' movements. --- Murderer's
creek, a branch of the south fork, about thirty miles southwest of Canyon City,
the scouting party came upon the Indians, and a skirmish ensued, resulting in a
man named Aldrich losing his life instantly and another named Schutz being
slightly wounded. The rest of the party, William Burnham, Ca-y Officer, William
Colbv, Joseph D. Combs and James Clark, escaped unscathed.
From the John Day valley the redskins took a northward course
over Fox valley and past Long creek, going by within sight of the fort, but
attempting no hostilities. Then, veering eastward, they passed up Butter creek
and attempted a junction with the Umatillas, with the result known to history.
Having been dispersed, the Piutes came back by way of the Dixie range, crossing
the John Day valley at its extreme head. The only atrocities known to have been
committed on this return trip were the murders of James Verdaman and a man whose
name is unknown. The former was shot dead at his ranch near Susanville, while
standing in his doorway, and the latter at his home on Olive creek. The settlers
in the valley were under arms during the whole war, and at Prairie City a home
guard was organized with J. W. Mack as captain. There was no organization at
Canyon City, so far as recorded. Mr. Allred claims that there was a secret
organization of one hundred men formed with Robert Lockwood as captain. These
men planned to join the army as scouts, but were refused the privilege, it being
feared that they would precipitate a battle which Howard was very anxious to
avoid. This company was never regularly organized, and never saw service. A more
detailed account of this war will be found in another chapter.
The period covered by the years 1879 to 1883, inclusive, was
one of general prosperity. All interests advanced. There was a feeling of
security from Indian depredations. At no time in the past had the people felt
absolutely ; safe from the attacks of the marauding bands of savages that
infested the country. This element of unrest or insecurity had had its influence
upon all industries. Perhaps not directly, but indirectly, it acted as a clog on
the energies and enterprise of the stockman and ranchman, as well as upon those
of the miner and business man. The ventures of all were attended with serious
risks and served to prevent their fullest developments. But with the passing of
the troublesome Indian question every man's way was clear, and all interests
began to forge to the front. In 1882 the assessor’s records showed a net gain in
real and personal values of several hundred thousand dollars. With the exception
of cattle, the number of stock on the ranges had increased enormously. At this
time the gross value of all properties was $2,068, 33, , and the taxable
property was valued at $1,603,779. Since 1879 there has been a steady and
uninterrupted increase in all values, and many fortunes have been made in the
mines and on the ranches.
The spring of 1884 saw a determined effort to remove the
county seat from Canyon City to some town in the Harney valley, the promoters of
the project contending that the seat of local government ought to be there, in
view of the fact that Harney valley was almost equal in extent to that of the
Willamette, and that the heaviest taxpayers were resident in it. They argued
that the placer mines of Canyon creek, Marysville and Dixie creek were almost
all exhausted, and the narrow strip of land along the John Day was already too
much impoverished for successful agriculture, and unable to furnish enough
cereals, vegetables and beeves for home consumption of the sparse population.
"Furthermore,"' they said, "Harney valley is soon to be connected with the
outside world by railroad."
The county commissioners in power were seriously considering
the plan of erecting a new court house and jail, in fact had gone so far as to
ask for bids, and perhaps their only reason for not proceeding at once with the
work was that the plans and specifications submitted to would-be contractors
called for too expensive a building. The bids ranged from $20,500 to $34,000,
and it was thought that even the smaller of these sums was more than the
county’s treasury would warrant the commissioners in expending. Tureman and
McGowan, candidates for membership in the county court, made the main issue of
their campaign opposition to the erection of new county buildings until the
voters should have a chance to express their opinion by the ballot as to the
permanent location of the county seat. Tureman and McGowan were defeated and the
movement failed. It would seem that the project was hardly a wise one, as it was
plainly discernable to all that the mammoth empire then included in Grant county
could not long remain one political head, and must have a location which would
be central to a new county, when such would be formed. It might therefore be
necessary to again move the seat of government. The true policy for the
residents of Harney valley to pursue would seem to be to endure patiently any
inconveniences which their distance from the county seat might entail until such
time as they should become strong enough to bear the burdens of independent
government, then work for the formation of a new county. This policy was the one
which ultimately prevailed.
The administration of the affairs of Grant county at this
time seems to have been remarkably efficient and satisfactory. In 1882 the
indebtedness was $20,464.99, and in 1884 it had decreased to $12,463.30, a
reduction of $8,001.69. This showing is all the more encouraging when it is
remembered that during the biennial period referred to more money was expended
for the improvement of roads and the building of bridges than in any previous
four years of the county's existence, also that the tax for county purposes was
lower in the year 1882-83 than ever before, and in 1883-84 was reduced to
two-thirds of that of the previous year, or to ten mills.
The reduction in the rates may, however, have been due in
part to an increase in the assessment rolls, for the county was enjoying not a
little prosperity at the time. The prospects for the cattlemen of eastern Oregon
were very bright, as the demand for their product was steady and the price high.
As affording a basis from which the wealth of the county at
this time may be roughly estimated, we quote below a summary of the assessment
roll for the year 1884. Probably the total there given must needs be multiplied
by three or four in order to get the real value of Grant county's assessable
property, but the summary referred to makes the following showing:
Number acres of agricultural land, 109,799, valued at
$174,822; number of lots, 79, valued at $7,335; value of improvements, $337,922;
value of merchandise, $138,516; value of money, notes, etc., $393,453;
furniture, $54,-875; number of horses and mules, 17,359, value $643,351; number
of cattle, 83,602, value, $1,632,415; number of sheep, 172,305, value $387,311;
number of swine, 1,721, value $4,123; gross value, $3,774,123.
Considerable disquietude seems to have prevailed throughout
this period of the county's history over the existing political divisions.
Eastern Oregon counties were inconveniently large. Long distances had to be
traversed by citizens in order to reach the different seats of local government,
and though this was necessary at the time the counties were formed, owing to the
paucity of the settlers and their wide distribution, it was thought that the
time had arrived for the amelioration of conditions in this respect. Thus in the
fall of 1884 the citizens of Trail Fork precinct, in Grant county, met at the
Lost Valley school house and drafted resolutions protesting against the proposed
extension of Crook county so as to include quite a large tract of Wasco and
Grant counties lying north and east of John Day river, on account of the
inaccessibility of Pineville to the section. ; and because it had no interests
in common with Crook county. This meeting also passed resolutions favoring the
erection of a new county embracing the eastern portion of Wasco county beginning
at the John Day river; the western part of Umatilla county and all that portion
of Grant county lying north of the John Day river. Frank Aholt and W. F. White
were appointed a committee to confer with representatives of other portions of
the territory directly concerned and draft a memorial to the legislature praying
for action in accordance with the resolutions. Like many similar projects, this
plan failed to materialize.
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©Shauna Williams