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Lake County and Lakeview, Oregon.—A
section of Oregon of which but comparatively little is
known, owing its remoteness and inaccessibility from the
railroad is, Southeastern Oregon. This part of the
state, however, is rich in natural resources, and it
will not be long in the future until it will begin to
attract serious attention from the immigration pouring
into the West.
Lake county, so called owing to its being the center of
the great lake district of Southern Oregon, is perhaps
the most favored section of this part of the state.
Twenty-five years ago this section was occupied by not
to exceed 10 white persons, who had braved the hardships
and privations incident to settling in a new country.
These men, thus early even, saw a future for
Southeastern Oregon, as had the early settlers
discounted the possibilities of the Willamette valley.
From this early vanguard of civilization the population
of Southeastern Oregon has steadily increased until it
is now about 3,000. The section of country in which
these people live is prosperous, the principal towns arc
the centers of culture and wealth and the developments
of these give every indication of a progressive and
intelligent people.
Lakeview, the seat of justice of Lake county, is reached
from the town of Ager just south of the California line
on the Southern Pacific railroad. The route which is
covered by stage presents a great variety of scenery.
Some of the views commanded from the higher elevations
of the mountains crossed by the stage on this journey
are truly majestic in their grandeur, while the beauties
of the road on the lower levels of the valleys appeal
strongly to the traveler over this route.
Lake county today is by no means a wilderness. From its
remoteness one might reasonably expect to find here a
civilization not so far advanced as is noted among the
people of the more accessible portions of the West. The
people of the towns of this section are in just as close
sympathy with the outside world as are the best informed
people of Portland. The leading papers of the country
find a large sale at Lakeview and Linkville in this
section. The well-to-do people of these towns have fine
homes which are often elegantly furnished, and that the
people are readers is attested by the many fine private
collections of books which are found in private
residences here. There is a warmth of welcome to
strangers in these settlements remote from railroad
lines that is lacking in towns more easily reached, and
it can be safely stated that no traveler ever visits the
leading towns of Southeastern Oregon without regretting
when the time of his departure arrives that his stay
here could not have been a more protracted one.
Lake county, as before stated, is the center of the
great lake district of Southern Oregon. On account of
the large surface area of water exposed here, together
with the elevation of the section, which is from 4,000
to 5,000 feet above sea level, the rainfall here is far
in excess of what it is in other parts of Oregon lying
east of the Cascade range of mountains. Lake county is
bounded on the north by Crook, on the east by Harney, on
the west by Klamath, and on the south by the California
line. The lake district here is one of the most
interesting parts of the coast. The lakes in Lake county
have no visible outlets, and in consequence their waters
are somewhat brackish. The largest of the chain of lakes
here is Goose Lake. Almost half of the body of this lake
lies south of the California line. Its greatest area
from north to south is about 50 miles. From east to west
it is about 15 miles. On the east side of Goose Lake,
extending for its entire length, is one of the most
fertile strips of agricultural land in the Pacific
Northwest. This constitutes the famous Goose Lake
valley. This is at the present time the most thickly
populated section of Lake county. Goose Lake has no
surface outlet and it does not overflow except during
unusually wet springs. Its waters are comparatively
fresh and they teem with the choicest varieties of game
fish. The character of the country on the west side of
Goose Lake is for the most part abrupt, rugged and
mountainous, but it is covered with a dense growth of
the finest timber.
Twenty-five miles north of Goose Lake is Lake Abert.
Twenty miles northwest of the latter lake is Summer
Lake. There is much of interest in the peculiar
formation of Lake Abert. It is oblong in shape, and has
a surface area of perhaps 60 square miles. The basin
which the lake occupies is formed by a fault in the
surface rock, so that while the bottom of the lake
slopes gradually from the west, its eastern shore-line
rises abruptly to an elevation of 1,000 feet. The water
of this lake is intensely brackish. It is said to
contain in solution carbonate of soda and glauber salt.
Summer Lake has an area almost equal to that of Lake
Abert. From the eastern shore of this lake a broad,
level and fertile stretch of agricultural land extends
out for some distance, while the country lining the
western and southern boundaries of the lake is of a
mountainous character. This lake has an outlet, and its
waters do not, therefore, contain so much chloride of
sodium as do those of Lake Abert.
South of Lake Abert is what is known as the Chewaucan
country, a large tract of valuable agricultural land,
which, at the present time, is used principally for
stock-raising purposes. A few miles northwest of Summer
Lake is another small inland body of water known as
Silver Lake. Beyond this latter body is a large area of
marsh and meadow land, which is rapidly filling up with
settlers. Warner Lake is in the southeastern portion of
the county. This lake is described as a succession of
smaller lakes, or large pools, separated here and there
by marsh plats. The water in certain of these pools is
totally absorbed during the summer months. After the
water has evaporated the residium is a thick crust of
salt, which is used by the ranchmen of this section for
their stock. Warner valley is a long, narrow defile, It
is 60 miles long by about 8 miles wide at with
precipitous walls on either side, its greatest width.
Lake county is one of the
largest counties in the state, it having an area of
about 8,000 miles. At least one-third of the county is
susceptible of a high state of cultivation. The
remaining two-thirds of the county consists of broken
land, but thousands of acres of this afford excellent
pasturage for horses, cattle and sheep. Some of the
hills of the county are covered with a stunted growth of
timber, while on some of the other elevations are large
and valuable bodies of sugar pine and cedar, which will
furnish an ample supply of timber to meet the local
demands for many years in the future. The farming lands
of Lake county are chiefly located in the valleys
already described. The character of the soil of these
lands is a rich, black loam, and it produces abundant
yields of all kinds of cereals and garden produce
without the aid of irrigation. The hardier fruits and
vegetables of all kinds do well here.
Until rail connection is made between the settled
districts of Lake county and the outside world, stock
raising will be the principal industry of the county.
Grain for the outside markets, at the present time,
cannot be successfully raised here. The stock interests
of this county are beginning to assume great magnitude,
and the revenue derived from this source is sufficient
to make the population of Lake county one of the most
prosperous communities in the Pacific Northwest. A few
figures will justify the truth of this assertion. At the
present writing there are estimated to be on the grazing
lands of Lake county 30,000 horses, 75,000 head of
cattle, and 250,000 head of sheep. This county annually
exports 1,750,000 pounds of wool. Lake county mutton and
beef regularly find a large sale in the Portland and San
Francisco markets.
The public domain in Lake county consists of swamp,
wagon-road and government lands. There are large bodies
of swamp lands, the title to which has not yet been
confirmed. The wagon-road grants of the county are also
in an unsettled condition, but it is probable that these
will soon be thrown open to entry under the homestead
law. There are still some fine bodies of agricultural
land in the county which are unoccupied, and which are
subject to settlement under the laws of the United
States. The exact number of acres of surveyed and vacant
lands in Lake county is 2,626,187. The climate of this
part of the state is a delightful one, and with the
advent of a railroad line this will become one of the
most important parts of the state.
The chief trading center for
Southeastern Oregon is Lakeview, the seat of justice of
Lake county. It is a wide-awake little town of about 900
population. It is situated near the head and on the east
side of Goose Lake valley, about four miles distant from
Goose Lake. The town is incorporated, and enjoys an
excellent municipal form of government. One of the five
United States land offices of the state is located here.
The receiver is Mr. C. U. Snider, and Dr. J. W. Watts is
the register. Both of these gentlemen are pioneers in
the state, and they are both regarded as most efficient
officers. The district under the jurisdiction of this
office embraces all of Klamath and Lake counties, half
of Harney and Malheur counties, and a portion of Crook
county.
Lakeview boasts of a number of substantial and
attractive-looking buildings. Among these may be
mentioned the court house, a public school which cost
$14,000, and a handsome brick bank building. The
Lakeview bank is a strong financial institution, and
enjoys the confidence of a wide patronage. It has a
capital of $75,000, and a rapidly increasing surplus. A.
McCallen is the successful manager and cashier of this
bank. Prominent among the business houses of Lakeview
may be mentioned two hotels, two livery stables, a
brewery, and perhaps a score of general merchandise and
other stores. The Lake County Examiner, of which Messrs.
Townsend & Beach are publishers, is one of the most
progressive interior publications of the state. The
fraternal and social organizations are represented at
Lakeview by lodges of the Odd Fellows, Masons, United
Workmen and Grand Army of the Republic. The Baptist and
Methodist denominations have comfortable church
buildings at this point. Lakeview offers superior
educational advantages. The Lakeview State Graded School
provides courses of study in the common, high school and
normal branches, as well as instruction in vocal and
instrumental music. The school is now a sectarian one.
The state has provided ample means for the purchasing of
the necessary apparatus for the institution in
illustrating the physical and natural sciences. The
corps of instructors is composed of four well qualified
teachers.
Lakeview has a good water-works system, together with
good facilities for fighting fire. Near the town are
established three sawmills, one roller-process flour
mill, a lime kiln and several ledges of valuable
building stone. A mile and a half south of the town are
two boiling hot springs which are said to possess
mineral properties. Bath houses have been erected near
these springs for the accommodation of those who may be
desirous of testing the healing powers of these mineral
waters. Forty miles north of Lakeview is the village of
Paisley, which is situated in the Chewaucan country.
Summer Lake is a trading post 25 miles to the northwest
of Paisley. Silver Lake is a small settlement 30 miles
still further north. Fifteen miles south of Lakeview, on
the state boundary line is New Pine Creek, another small
trading point.
The railroad question is a
vexed one to the people of Lakeview and Lake county. It
is one, however, that promises an easy solution within
the near future. The Union Pacific has already made
surveys for a line through the county. This would
probably be its northern California extension. Reference
to any map of the Pacific Northwest should be made to
enable the reader to fully appreciate the absolute
certainty of one or more of the transcontinental lines
building through Lake county in the near future. This
would make a most feasible route from the north through
Oregon and California to San Francisco on the south. It
is a well known fact that James J. Hill of the Great
Northern is biding his time when he will be able to
enter California with his road. Mr. Hill is too shrewd a
railroad builder to parallel the line of the Southern
Pacific west of the Cascades in selecting a route south.
In going south he will undoubtedly select a less
expensive route than is afforded in the country crossed
by the Oregon branch of the Southern Pacific, and in
building through Lake county he will open up a new and
wonderfully rich section of country where he will not
have to meet competition. It is felt by those who have
carefully studied the situation that he will build south
from the line of the Great Northern at Butte, through
Idaho and Southeastern Oregon. Mr. Hill is thoroughly
familiar with the easy grades and the inexhaustible
resources of the country along this route and these will
prove a most important inducement for him to select this
route when he finally decides to enter the California
field. Lake county and Lakeview offer exceptional
opportunities for trade to the merchants of Portland,
and a railroad that would reach this country from some
point on the Southern Pacific this side of the Siskiyou
Mountains would prove a most important investment from
the standpoint of Portland's best business interests.
The Oregonian's
Handbook of the Pacific Northwest
Edward Gardner Jones, Editor
1894, The Oregonian Publishing Co.
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