1843 History of McKean County, Pennsylvania
Contributed by Nancy Piper
[Source: Historical Collections of the State of Pennsylvania, by Sherman Day, Philadelphia, 1843, Page 457-461]
| McKean County
McKEAN County was separated from Lycoming by the act of 26th March, 1804; but being at that time an unbroken wilderness, it was not organized for judicial purposes until 27th March, 1824. It is named in honor of Hon. Thomas McKean, formerly chief-justice, and for nine years governor of the state. Length 42 miles, breadth 35; area 1,442 square miles. These dimensions, however, include a part of Elk county, recently formed from McKean and Clearfield counties. Population in 1810, 142; in 1820, 728; in 1830, 1,439; in 1840, 2,975; being only about that of single townships in the lower part of the state. The county occupies a broad and elevated table land, upon which the Allegheny river and several of its principal tributaries take their rise. The sources of the Driftwood branch of the Sinnemahoning also interlock with those of the Allegheny near the southeastern corner of the county. It is said that an enterprising emigrant some years ago ascended the Portage branch of the Sinnemahoning to its head in his canoe, and with the aid of his hoe succeeded in connecting it with a small stream running towards the Allegheny. The same thing might occur at other points of the dividing ridge. The Allegheny here flows northward into the state of New York. Its principal tributaries are the Oswaya, Stanton creek, Potato creek, and Tunenguant; and, after it has again returned to Pennsylvania, Sugar creek, Kenjua creek, and the sources of the Clarion river. There are no mountains, but the face of the country generally is interspersed with hills and valleys; the hills, being formed by the action of water, are higher and more precipitous as the streams increase in size. Near the summits it is common to find an uninterrupted level for miles, broken only here and there by a gentle rolling or a spring run. This upland is finely timbered with hard wood-beech, maple, and cherry; "and so open are the woods, that a squirrel may be seen 60 rods in advance." The lower valleys of the streams are covered with a heavy growth of pine and hemlock, of which large quantities are annually sawed and taken to the Ohio River. As the county lies on the verge of the great bituminous coal basin, its soil has been mainly formed by the decomposition of the sandstones and conglomerates that underlie that formation; and consequently is better adapted for grazing, and the raising of oats, rye, and potatoes, than for corn or wheat. Along the streams are some rich interval or bottom lands, better adapted for corn. The heavy frosts, however, generated by the humidity preserved by the shade of those vast forests, must operate for some years to come, until the country is more populous, against the cultivation of corn and wheat. Coal, of good quality, is found in several places; and with its contiguous strata there alternate beds of limestone, which furnish an efficient auxiliary to the agriculture of this region. Iron ore of superior quality has also been found. The climate is healthy in the extreme, the waters being of the purest kind, bursting out from springs on every farm, and flowing off with a gradual descent. Immigrants have here nothing to fear on this head, as they have on the rich bottoms of the southwest. The greatest drawback to the settlement of this county has been the want of, and the vast expense of making, good roads through the interminable forest. The roads must necessarily be long-the people were few; but this difficulty has been in some measure overcome. The great east and west state road, opened in 1816-18, runs from Kenjua on the Allegheny through the centre of the county to Coudersport and Wellsborough. Another road, opened in 1827 to'29, runs from Smethport, through Caledonia and Karthauss, to Milesburg near Bellefonte; another, by way of Coudersport, to Jersey Shore, in Lycoming co.; and another into Jefferson co. |
| The population was, until recently, principally from New England and
New York-of course industrious, frugal, and well educated. A large number
of Germans are now coming in, and will probably soon outnumber the other
races. The principal occupation of the people is clearing land, lumbering,
and raising cattle; the two latter items furnishing the only articles of
export.
The greater part of this county is, and has been for many years, owned in immense tracts by gentlemen residing in the lower part of the state, and by the Holland Land Co. The principal individual owners are Messrs. John Keating & Co., Richards and Jones, and the heirs of William Bingham and Jacob Ridgeway, of Philadelphia, James Trimble, Esq. of Harrisburg, and B. B. Cooper, Esq., of New Jersey. These gentlemen have done much by their enterprise and capital towards opening roads and establishing schools in the co. Most of them have agents in the co., from whom their lands may be purchased at from $1 to $3 per acre, owith a credit of from five to ten years, payable by instalments. |
| Smethport, the county seat, a pleasant town, is situated on the left
bank of Potato cr., where the great east and west road crosses, and at the
confluence of Marvin cr. It contains the courthouse, substantially built
of brick, an academy, a Methodist church, and two Congregational societies
who attend service in the public buildings; two printing offices, 7 stores,
3 taverns, grist-mill, saw-mill, and clothing-mill. The following facts relating
to the early settlement of this place, and of others in the county, are derived
from a communication in Hazard's Register for 1832, by O. J. Hamlin, Esq.
Smethport was laid out under the superintendence of John Bell, Thos. Smith, and John C. Brevost, in 1807. The first house was erected by Capt. Arnold Hunter, in 1811; another built in 1812 ; but both abandoned in 1814. No permanent settlement was commenced until 1832. About this time, the first county commissioners were elected, and held their office in a small building, erected by Dr. Eastman, at the lower part of the town plot. The first commissioners were Rensselaer Wright and Jonathan Colegrove, for McKean, and John Taggart, for Potter county: Joseph Otto, treasurer. This county was organized for judicial purposes in 1826; and the first county court was held in September of that year. The courthouse, a respectable brick building, was erected this year. At this time there were but about half a dozen dwelling-houses. A printing press was established in 1832. A weekly mail arrives here from the north, the east, the southeast, the south, and west; and a stage commenced running to Coudersport, thence to Jersey Shore, or to Wellsborough. By the legislature, an appropriation of $2,000 was made for an academy at Smethport. Several years ago, John Keating, Esq., gave $500, and 150 acres of land adjoining the village, as a donation towards such an institution, and individuals of McKean county have subscribed rising of $500 for that purpose. These amounts have been vested in productive funds. |
| Several years previous to 1810, the first settlement commenced in the
county began. A Mr. King, an enterprising English gentleman, with several
friends of his from England, settled on the Oswaya creek, in Ceres township,
25 miles from Smethport. There is now a flourishing settlement here; and
some of the oldest orchards are in that neighborhood. This neighborhood is
usually called King's settlement.
The first settlers of this county suffered great inconveniences : so much greater than those of the present day, that there is scarce a comparison. They found here a dense wilderness, without a road, or an inhabitant, save the beasts of the forest, some of which were of a very ferocious character, while others served as a slender support to those who practised hunting. The first settlement, of which I have a correct account, was made by six families from the state of New York, who came on about the same time, and located on Potato creek, from three to seven miles north of Smethport, in 1810. They had great difficulty in getting to their new homes, having to bring their families and goods up the stream in canoes. There was no settlement within many miles of them ; and they were even obliged for a time to bring their provisions in by canoes or on pack-horses. All kinds of eatables were very dear, even at the nearest settlements. This settlement suffered many privations ; but those settlers are now well compensated, for they are the owners of flourishing farms, and are themselves in a prosperous condition. It is usually known by the name of the lower settlement. |
| Norwich settlement, lying along the Potato creek, commencing about four miles southeast from Smethport, and extending up that stream, was commenced in 1815, when 14 families came on, having exchanged their property in Norwich, Chenango county, New York, with Messrs. Cooper, M'Ilvain & Co., for those lands where they now reside, being then an entire wilderness. Having no roads, they were obliged to ascend the Potato creek, with much labor and expense, in canoes, with their families and moveables. They were under much embarrassment for the first year or two, for want of roads and provisions; and were often obliged to get their provisions, grain, &c., in Jersey Shore, a distance of more than 100 miles, on pack-horses. Corn was worth, when got here, $2 per bushel, and salt was sold for $14 per barrel. This settlement went on vigorously, and in two or three years raised more than sufficient for their own consumption. It is now in a flourishing situation. |
| A settlement had been commenced at Instanter, four miles west of the Norwich settlement, a short time previous to the latter; and in 1821 or "22, 400 acres of land were cleared on one farm, belonging to Jacob Ridgeway, Esq., under the superintendence of P. E. Scull, who has always been an active man in furthering the improvement of this county. Judge Bishop, now one of our associate judges, was the first settler at that place. Since those settlements were formed, othera have been commenced and carried on in different parts of the county. The townships of Bradford and Corydon, have within the last three years been rapidly increasing. |
| In 1831, the manufacture of salt was commenced by Messrs. Allen Rice
&. Co., at a salt spring in the southeastern part of Sergeant township.
The operations were found quite favorable, and large boiling works erected.
Salt was made of an excellent quality, and the water found to bear a good
per cent.
Port Allegheny is on the Allegheny, 10 miles east of Smethport, near the confluence of the Portage branch. The Canoe-place is about two miles above. It was here that the early settlers of Warren co. came about the year 1795; constructed a canoe, and floated down to the mouth of the Conewango. |
| Bradford is a small village recently started in the forks of Tunenguant,
on land purchased from the United States Land Co., better known as the Boston
Co.
Ceres, formerly King's settlement, is a smart and flourishing village, inhabited by New York and Yankee lumbermen, on Oswaya cr., in the northeastern corner of the county. It contains a Methodist church, several stores, mills, &c. |
| Teutonia is the name of the new German town, situated on the right bank
of Stanton cr., 5 miles southwest of Smethport. This town is the property
of "The Society of Industry." It was started in March, 1843, on the plan
and by the enterprise of Mr. Henry Ginal, a German now residing in Philadelphia,
and agent of the society. It contains at present about 450 inhabitants. A
schoolhouse is built, but no church. Some seventy or eighty log-houses have
been erected, besides a steam saw-mill, a large tannery, and a store furnished
with every article necessary for food and clothing. The society is in possession
of 40,000 acres of land, a considerable part of which is already cleared,
and they keep from forty to fifty hands at chopping, all of them members
of the society. Excellent bituminous coal, iron ore, limestone, brick-clay,
&c., abound on the lands. The soil is generally of good quality. The
society is founded on the principle of community of property, money and furniture
excepted, and is sustained by the cooperation of its members; an equal
distribution of the profits being made half-yearly. In its fundamental principles
it differs from Fourier's system. The society has about $40,000 capital;
some $16,000 of which is invested in land. This stock is divided into 660
shares, of which 360 are already sold. When the balance is sold the number
will be limited, and shareholders will be admitted only by buying out others.
The shares are now worth about $200; originally they were only worth $100,
but have risen with the improvements. The land is divided into several districts;
in the centre of each there is to be a town, with houses built in uniform
style, and the stables and barns will be outside of the village. Marriage
is not only allowed but encouraged, and each family resides in its separate
house, possessing its own furniture and money. Clothing of a plain and uniform
kind, provisions, fuel, &c., are regularly distributed by rations from
the society's common stores. An individual becomes a member by purchasing
a share of stock, going on the ground, and working with the rest. The society
will build him a house if married; or furnish him or her with a lodging,
if single. Children, when they grow up, become members by conforming to the
rules of the society. Married women are not obliged to work for the community,
but devote their attention to the care of their own families. All religions
are tolerated here; (but it would perhaps be better if the society had commenced
with selecting some one in particular.) Whenever 300 shareholders vote to
maintain a minister they may do so, the minister himself buying a share;
the society will furnish him with a house, and will consider him entitled
to the maintenance belonging to his share in return for his spiritual labors;
but if any less number than 300 should desire a minister, he must perform
his regular share of physical labor, unless his friends choose privately
to support him.
Although agriculture and the raising of cattle are the prominent objects of the society, yet having many skilful mechanics, they intend to establish several manufactories. The members of each trade choose their own inspector, and determine the amount of work which shall be done by each individual, or company of persons. The above facts were learned by the compiler from Mr. Ginal himself. |
| Ginalsburg, four miles east of Teutonia, contains about 100 inhabitants. It is built with frame houses, and contains a stone schoolhouse, a steam saw-mill, and a pottery; a furnace is about to be erected, and a boarding school will be opened there next year. This village also pertains to the Society of Industry. |