The surface of the county in the Basin is generally undulating, rising in some places into high bluffs or knobs several hundred feet in height. The water-shed is from southeast to northwest. One range of hills or elevated lands rises in Rutherford County, near Stewart's Creek, and extends southwesterly, but gradually sinks into a level a short distance from Franklin. The waters from the northern slope of this range flow into Mill Creek, so named from its early and numerous mills thereon. This drainage extends over the fertile lands of the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Districts. The higher lands afford excellent timber of cedar and other valuable timbers. Separating the Thirteenth and Twenty-first from the Twelfth and Twenty-second Disticts is Duck River Ridge, which is the water-shed between the waters of Big Harpeth and the head waters of Rutherford and Flat Creeks. The principal drainage of the county, however, is by the Harpeth and its branches. This embraces a very large portion of the county. The Big Harpeth enters the county at College Grove, near the southeastern part of the county, and leaves it near the northwestern part. Not far from Mount Carmel rises West Harpeth, a stream which flows almost parallel with Big Harpeth, but unites with it a short distance northwest of Franklin. Each of these streams receives small tributaries, the largest and best known being Leiper's Creek, which enters West Harpeth not far from Hillsboro. Within the valley of these small rivers is seen some very fine country. It is even questioned if it can be surpassed anywhere. Formerly it was densely covered with heavy forest trees or a rank growth of cane. A short distance beneath the surface is a bed of limestone, but the soil along the river is a rich, black loam, capable of supporting a luxuriant growth of all the cereals known to the temperate climate, as well as other vegetable products, nor has the cultivation of these been wanting, for the late statistics show Williamson to afford the largest yield of wheat of any county in the state.

Little Harpeth, which flows near the well known Hollow Tree Gap, drains a much smaller amount of land than the other Harpeth, but none the less rich. South Harpeth cuts its way through the Rim or highlands in the extreme western part of the county. This is bordered by high hills and precipitous rocks, with an ever-changing bed. This feature of these rivers is noticeable within the recollections of men; they are much wider than formerly and not so deep; their rise is much higher and quicker than formerly, and their subsidence is much more rapid. The name Harpeth is said to have originated from two noted outlaws, who had their headquarters on Big Harpeth. Their names were Harp, and from their size were designated as Big and Little Harp. After bidding defiance to the law and force for many years they were at last brought to punishment. The country lying along the South Harpeth is quite broken and is sparsely settled. Covering a large portion of districts -- first, second, third and sixth -- is a heavy growth of timber almost in its primitive luxuriance. In some portions of the county there is a sandy soil, from which there is a heavy growth of cedar, and in other parts there is a fine growth of white oak. Fine springs abound in almost every part of the county; these, with the fine grasses grown, make this an excellent stock-raising county, to which attention has been largely attracted since 1871. Besides the numerous other springs the county abounds in various medical springs. These are known as Smith's Springs, Cayce's Spring, and the best known of these now is the Fernvale Spring, owned by J. B. McEwen. Analyses of the water of the last-named spring have been made by several eminent chemists. These all show the water to possess high medical properties.

A comparison of the amount of cereals grown in Williamson County in 1870 and in 1885 will show the rapid increase in these products, and also the amount of these products grown in the county. The product of corn in bushels in 1870 was 1,010,443; of wheat, 227,294; of rye, 4,662; of oats, 99,933; of barley, 10,536. The corresponding cereals in 1885 were as follows: Indian corn, in bushels, 1,439,445; wheat, 315, 966; rye, 2,265; oats, 585,522; barley, 499. The number of horses and mules for 1870 were 10,314; cattle, 6,988; sheep, 15,226; hogs, 41,703. The same animals in 1885 were as follows: Horses and mules, 11,442; cattle, 12,906; sheep, 15,809; hogs, 43,132.

In regard to the first settlers of Williamson County, there is an interesting tradition; in fact it must be traditional in part, at least, as Haywood, Ramsey and Putnam do not give it. It is to the effect that in 1797 three men, named, respectively, Graham, Brown and Tindel, accompanied by a negro and a dog, went out on an exploring expedition to the vicinity about Franklin. The men were absent some time, and did not return, neither any tidings of them. A party was sent in search of the men but no trace of them was found until their arrival at Hollow Tree Gap, where the party met the dog in a half starved condition. True to the instincts of his nature the dog led the party to where lay the remains of his masters. It seems the party had found traces of a bear, which they had followed some distance from their course before they came up with the animal. The bear was killed and the party had encamped on the spot. Attracted by the firing upon the bear or by the camp fire, a party of Indians found the lonely party and surrounded the camp and killed the entire number. Fate was generous enough to make these men fight desperately and slay several times their number of Indians. The faithful dog had kept vigil over his dead companions until driven away by hunger.